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A friend of mine who I regretfully haven’t talked to in a few years lost the fight against PTSD. Raise a homebrew this holiday weekend and never forget about the Veterans who fight for your country every day. He was an avid home brewer and if you know his family give them my sincerest...

I’m pretty sure he is my long lost biological father and he really meant to give that to me, but if it makes you feel better I will let you borrow it.

I forgot about the several hundred bucks I’ve spent in cam locks and tri clamps. Bobby is solid when it comes to fittings. I can’t recommend brewhardware.com enough.

I avoid Midwest and Northern because of the InBev deal, but I’ll be damned if the $20 kit sale aren’t tempting every year.

MoreBeer for malt and Adventures in Homebrewing for just about everything else. I have started supporting the local guy more. BrewHaHa in Jackson, Ms. if he doesn’t have it he can get it in a few days.

I got a few more fast rack trays and a new bottle tree. My ones that will get the most use are from the MIL. A magnetic bottle opener that catches the caps and several wooden six pack carriers. I was told the carriers aren’t allowed back in her house unless they have some hefe in them.

I meant cold sparring increases the amount of time it takes to raise the wort temp to boiling. If you sparge normally your temp will either stay the same or rise a little. With cold sparging we are causing a significant drop in wort temperature that has to be accounted for when raising the wort...

I cold fly sparge as well and haven’t had a loss in efficiency either. I’m assuming homebrewers learned to sparge at temperature because that’s what the big boys were doing. What they didn’t say was the sparge temp doesn’t effect efficiency, but it cools the wort. Which means you spend more time...

This yeast is building up nicely...

I fly sparge with cold water. My tun is direct fired as well. I heat to 170, and hold it for 10 minutes or so. Then begin the sparge. I haven't had any trouble with stuck sparges, but I do use rice hulls in every batch. Make sure you account for them in your water measurements. They soak...

Shipping is unavoidable. Either the company putting the kit together pays it and passes it down, or you pay it yourself. If it were me I would go with a kit with decent reviews. Nothing’s worse than trying to piece it together yourself, and stuff not working right.

I don’t think it will hurt anything unless there is scratching on the inside. Floodwater is some nasty stuff though. I’ve been through a couple more than I care to count.

Doing the hardest part of home brewing. Emptying kegs so I can package tomorrow. At least there is good food and a slate of football games to keep me occupied while I labor over these pints.

One of the best things I have purchased for brewing is a wine thief. It makes taking hydrometer samples a breeze. Look into some variation of this and pick up a hydrometer. Less that $20 and you will know fermentation is done every time...

@TxBrew I’m liking the new layout and the capability with Tapatalk. Here’s a pic of what I’m drinking tonight.

Brewed Centennial Blonde last night and finished cleaning this morning. Football and brews for the rest of the day.

This is a problem I ran into when I used a thermowell. The outside of the carboy would get frosty before the temprobe would read 60-70. I decided to ultimately quit monitoring wort temp and control ambient. I put my probe in a mason jar full of water and set it 3-4 degrees below target...

I would look into partial mashing, or scale your recipes to 2.5/3 gallons.

Sounds like chill haze. It's not something I have tried to tackle in my beers, but from what little I have read it is avoidable. https://byo.com/body/item/486-conquer-chill-haze

I️ see it even here in Mississippi where the beer market pails in comparison. “Craft” is becoming the new “Premium”. Slap the label on the side and sell it at a higher price and people will perceive quality.