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I live in Edmonds. Count me in. My wife and I are purchasing our first house so I will be able to put my all grain rig back together.

Very cool. What part of Washington are you in? I live in Edmonds and my wife and I are buying our first house with being able to build a separate brewery a big part of our decision.

Ok, while it might not be no work it sure is very little work. I am sure this has been done before but here is my take on beer line cleaning. Parts are just what was laying around the house and a quick trip to the marine supply store for fittings and tubing. The marine supply stores usually...

That is what I have seen looking around the web. It appears to have something to do with the low pH during fermentation. Metals and plastics can leach. Now looking for a glass container...

Hello, My brother would like to brew a first batch of Kombucha and asked me if he could use one of my corny kegs to do so. I use the corny kegs for brewing but have seen that most people suggest staying away from stainless and using glass instead. Could anyone here expand on this? Thanks...

What I would do is drill a small hole <1/4 inch just barely through the metal outer skin. Then I would take a thin metal rod and poke it through the foam feeling around for a refrigerant line. If i found one I would start over a little higher or lower. If no line found then I would drill the...

I used cam locks with great success. you get used to them quickly and they are much cheaper than the brass or stainless QD's.

the pump comes with 1/2" npt in and outlets. There are a verity of options with cam locks and QD's being the most popular. This is the hose I use and recommend.

I don't use a direct heat mash tun so I can only offer my thoughts on the matter. I would be willing to say that constant stirring while adding heat would suffice. I'm sure that someone who does direct heat will chime in soon.

Did you stir the mash while adding heat? most direct fire mash tuns use a pump to circulate the wort while adding heat.

this is the perforated sheet that is used by most people. I believe this is the same stuff that Sabco uses. I bought a 15 inch square to cut my own false bottom. I live a few miles from their shop=no shipping charges

Either method will work. Go with what makes you most comfortable. And on a second look at the diagram there will be the same number of connections to make.

The method auber shows is a more direct method of wiring (fewer connections). you could wire the SSR to interrupt the hot but it is not necessary for 120v applications. Are you trying to control a 120v element or 240v?

^that url does not work for me...

What you describe is one way to wire a SSR into a 120 volt system.

I bought a March 809 pump used it once and immediately ordered a second pump. There are lots of ways to save on the cost of a brew stand. I think the biggest saving is in building the stand with >16g mild steel.

My guess is that as the hot water from the immersion chiller heats the water in your sink the difference between wort temperature and cooling water decreases therefore reducing the efficiency. When using an immersion chiller you want to run the cooling water at a flow rate slow enough to remove...

Glad you got it fixed. Just be glad that you did not drop a HP oxygen tank.

If it where mine I would chuck it in the lathe and see if I could cut new threads. you might be able to gently squeeze it in a vise, use a soft brass drift punch or hardwood dowel and hammer to try and work it back to round. You might be better off buying a new one depending on your tool supply.

Do you use whole leaf hops or pellet hops? Both can clog a CFC in a heart beat. My first time using a CFC was a mess. The CFC ended up being blocked by the hops and I had to siphon the beer out of the kettle into the fermenter. Now my brew kettle has a dip tube with a stainless steel pot...