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Let us know what you figure out.

I ordered a panel mount coupling from McMaster-Carr yesterday at lunch. I checked their site this morning to see if it had shipped yet, and it had already been delivered. 18 hours from order to delivery is pretty darn good when I didn't pay for faster shipping. I'll post pics of the build...

I have a supportive SWMBO as well. She was skeptical at first and was expecting my beer to taste like crap, but one sip won her over. Definitely go with a kit. You may need/want more stuff, but you won't get anything that you won't use.

My first batch was also a Red Ale. If you're super impatient you can check them out at 2 weeks. Typically, my bottles are carbonated by then.

I've never driven in one, by I do remember reading a review that stated they were great except there was something weird about someone being buckled in the front seat while someone was getting into the rear.

Another problem with soda bottles is that it's very hard to get the syrupy taste out of them. Look for generic seltzer/club soda to go on sale and by them cheap.

It also depends on what you're brewing. Ales are much more forgiving than Belgians if you're shooting for specific flavors to be brought out by the yeast.

I can't wait to move up to 10 gallons. I just need to convince the SWMBO to let me get the real mamma, jamma pot.

Hmm, what are the ramifications to the space time continuum of a 4th dimensional hangover?

I threw a calculator together just for that purpose. Cost Justification to SWMBO Calculator

Personally, I've been looking everywhere for a rhombo-hexagonal dodecahedron shaped cooler. I hear that's the best shape for making beer.

I've heard of breweries, Boddington's and Hacker-Pschorr, which have yeast strains that are several centuries old. My understanding that is they have a lab where they separate out and encourage the healthier yeasties.

I planted my three weeks ago. 6 fuggles and 6 cascade. I have 3 cascades poking through but nothing from the fuggles side.

I'm one of the odd balls that prefers bottles over kegging. Scrubbing the labels off initially is a major PIA, but once you learn which type come off easily it's not too big of a deal. Just a few hours of work once a year. Another key is to not label your bottles, but instead get those little...

I would go for a pot large enough to boil 10 gallons if you're planning on ending up there. The general rule is that equipment can still be used for one batch size down. I guess a 15 gallon pot would be the appropriate size for a 10 gallon boil. You may be able to find a great deal on a...

I'm not sure that it matters. Since CO2 is heavier than air, it should create a barrier between the beer and the oxygen. If you're not moving the carboy I would think it would be ok. Maybe someone a little more experienced than myself could elaborate it larger secondaries are a problem.

I don't know anything about that specific burner, but I have 55K BTUs and it's pretty good. 20-30 minutes for a boil from hose temperature.

Looks good. I'm not crazy about the turquoise and green together though.

Oh, as for efficiency, I've gone through 3 batches with it and haven't had to refill. That also includes several uses of the same tank for burgers and such on my gas grill.

This is the one I have. Mine's 55K BTUs and gets up to a boil in less than 1/2 hour, but I never timed it so it could be as short as 20 minutes. It feels very stable and based off its weight limit I think it could hold a 40gallon pot. Although, I've never tested that theory.