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Don't fret it. My first batch was only about 4.5 gallons in the secondary. It was a Red Ale from 7 Bridges.

A gallon of Iodophor! Jeez that must get expensive, but at least now your better bottles are a nice perty red. :p

I'm brewing a Belgian Dark Strong Ale. My LHBS was out of Special B so I had to improvise: Type: All grain Size: 5.5 gallons Color: 20.1 SRM Bitterness: 23.4 IBU OG: 1.096 FG: 1.022 Alcohol by Vol: 9.7% :rockin: Grain: 10 lb. 2 Row 8 lb. Munich 1 lb Caramunich 6oz Caramel 120 2oz...

Cool. Looks like something from a Tim Burton movie.

I prefer Domestic Ethanol Manufacturer.

By the way, Lowes carries but Home Depot does not. Apparently, they don't sell wallpaper anymore.

What are the BJCP guidelines for the "Crap In A Can" style? :ban:

I'm going to be attempting my first batch sparge this weekend, so needless to say, I'm not an expert. Did you stir after adding the second batch of water? Also, my understanding is that you want to add water to bring the temperature up to 168 or so. I found this calculator to determine water...

I prefer the plastic bucket for primary and a better bottle for secondary. Cleaning the primary bucket out can be a pain already, I can't imagine trying to get that muck out of a carboy.

I'm going to be brewing a Belgian dark strong ale which should have an OG of around 1.10. I don't have the recipe in front of me so I don't have the exact number. I've noticed the thread about aeration which got me doing some research and I found that it's somewhat important for high gravity...

I've seen water jugs that hold 2 quarts that look like mini better bottles. I was thinking of grabbing one of those for a starter next time I see one.

I know this is bringing back an old post, but apparently Yuengling is behind this. They're concerned that by bringing beer to grocery stores which buy alot of things in bulk, they'll be helping out BMC.

Pewter might do the trick.

Add some weight? How about 19.5 lbs of grain? :p

That's what I do and I've never had a problem with infections. I think it would be safer as you're not disturbing the CO2 layer at all. Make sure you put it high enough that it's above the trub.

I posted this question at the end of a DIY post, but I thought it might get lost. I set up my mash tun for batch sparging but haven't trimmed the stainless steel braid yet. Should I leave the braid as is, or trim it so it can lay straight across the bottom?

Check out this calculator here: Can I Mash It? A five gallon cooler will hold about 12 lbs of grain with some head room.

Next I put some teflon tape around the nipple and used that to connect the coupling to the ball valve. Make sure that the ball valve is arranged so that when the handle is open, it's pointing away from the cooler. Next up I added the barb to MIP adapter with some teflon tape on it as well...

I finished my conversion of the Xtreme cooler to a massive mashtun. I can't take full credit for the parts and ideas as I found inspiration from others who have done similar builds. Here's all the parts I needed: Parts List: Xtreme 70qt cooler Stainless braid from water supply...