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x2 and right on. I've heard a lot of talk on this board about different tube sizes making a difference on the heat transfer. You're dead right that the VOLUMETRIC FLOWRATE of the wort is what matters, not the volume of the tube (unless boiling). Because if you think about it, your HLT or...

Whoa, someone replied to this thread! I had given up on it. Thanks for the link cyber, I'll definitely check it out. My plan is to have a dual volage RIMS heater. Both times while filling the MLT I'll be running 240V (4500W). Then, while recirculating, I'll use 120V (1000ishW). I'm going...

Guys, xylene starts with an "X". (Yes, it's pronounced zylene). I've never had any issues with just soap and water; my trick is to use the dish sponge. It's the kind with sponge on one side and "non stick safe" abrasive on the other. I just have to wipe each label a few times, then a...

Arkador, I see you're in FW. Pickup a bottle of Shiner's smoked beer. I smoked my own malt once; it came out just like that. Think of scraping all the burnt stuff off of your grill and pouring your beer over it..LOL. (as you can tell, I'm not a fan of THAT particular shiner selection)...

They're a dutch company and, in Europe, 6 packs are different than over here. Their 6packs look more like our 12 pack of bottles, with the packaging coming over the top. However, they're completely open on the sides (the skinny sides). So think of it as a piece of carboard the width of 3...

See this thread for number crunching of coiled tube CFCs. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ultimate-cfc-calculator-124294/

I put it all together on a breadboard to make sure it worked. Now I'll solder it all up to a PCB. The length of the wires may affect the readings, but not much. I'm only expecting 3, maybe 4' of wire from my readouts to the IC. Voltage drop should be very small across the wires. The...

Parts List: PM 128-E: LCD Panel Voltmeter........................$8.95 LM34DZ : IC Temp Sensor...............................$1.89 200Ohm Precision Resistor 0.1%.......................$1.77 1.8kOhm Precision Resistor 0.1%......................$2.31 9V Battery...

At the moment I have 3 LCDs and 3 LM34s. I want to have a temperatures sensor in two in the MLT to get a good profile. I'll have a PID controller on the outlet of the RIMS heater to get that measurement. I plan to use the 3rd LM34 just upstream of the RIMS heater so that I can get the...

Success! Last night I almost had the circuit built but SWMBO took over my time. This morning I was able to take a quick look at it and fix a simple mistake. The result? It works! The thermostat at my office is set to 75F (yes, it's hot in here). It reacts fairly quickly to small...

Sorry, I didn't have time to mock up the circuit last night. SWMBO had a long to-do list for me when I got home! Hopefully I'll get it working tonight. I'll include a parts list once I can confirm that the thing works!

I ordered most of the parts from BGMicro (www.bgmicro.com). They have LM34DZs, which are unfortunately the least accurate LM34s, for under $2. I would prefer a LM34A but couldn't find them anywhere. It's an LCD panel display and a voltmeter in one. It's the most expensive part of the set...

The LM34 itself is REALLY small (5mm..the same size as a standard LED). I plan on putting it either inside of an acorn nut or inside of a copper tube with a cap. Then it's going to go into a "T" joint so that it is exposed to the wort that's flowing by. I have the TO-92 version which is all...

? The 100kOhm resistor is just there to keep the current down flowing through the indicator LED. It doesn't do much of anything else. The LM34 is precalibrated and reads linearly. It's guaranteed accuracy is 1F at 77F and claims +/- 1.5 up to 300F. (We'll see when I get it all set up)...

So I'm beginning to set up a RIMS system and would like to monitor temperature at several places in the process. However, thermocouples and readouts can start to get both bulky and pricey! What I want is a simple measurement device and a simple readout. So, what to do but build my own...

And BTW, the above doesn't have much of a "margin" in it. You're going to gain some heat in the lines as the glycol goes over to the exchanger, but you'll lose some heat as the wort gets to the exchanger. I don't know that these will really offset, so if you can go with more than 30 gallons of...

OK, so I crunched the numbers from an energy balance standpoint. The answer is: You need to use ICE (as other's have said). Here's why. First, let's calculate how much energy is required to cool the wort. Mass Cp of wort @ SG=1.05 is about 0.882 BTU/(lb*F) 51 gallons * 1.05SG *...

mikefromcu, It's difficult to say how much glycol you'll need, but I imagine quite a bit. You'd need to know how quickly your chest freezer can keep up with the heat you'll be dumping into it. (Don't forget that for every BTU of heat you dump into your freezer, that BTU has to be pumped...

If he had a false bottom in both the kettle and the mash tun, he could always adjust the liquid volume with his other pump. If you've got to much in the kettle just send some back to the mashtun. In fact, this might be the best way to get grain over; use too much liquid and then adjust it...

You can move a slurry with a centrifugal pump (so you don't necessarily need a positive displacement pump), but it has to be specially built for this. But you're right, even a "thin" mash is going to cause difficulties since it's more like a wet solid or a "settling slurry" and not a liquid...