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Yes, these are resistors to convert 4-20mA signals. I am pretty sure they are correct, just doing a sanity check.

I am getting deep into wiring up my panel and want to double check a few things with the experts. I am using a Unishield with Grand Central (3.3V). 1) SM6004 flow and temp meter. Outputs 4-20ma signal. Flow range is 0-6.6gpm. Temp range is -20-80C. If you exceed the max, it will send >20mA...

I don't think you will ever run both elements at full power for 3 hrs. Once you are up to temp on the hlt,, it won't need much to maintain the temp. Once you are boiling you should not need to heat the hlt.

My BK an HLT have triclamp ports slightly above the heater element, presumably for a level switch to protect the heater from running dry. Is this a good place to install the Brucontrol volume sensor and can it reliably function as a safety switch in this configuration? I would hate to cut a...

I just bought one of these, put it together, filled it up and turned it on. The pump made some rattling noise ran for 5 or so seconds and then stopped. Following the instructions, I took it apart. When I pulled out the impeller, the magnet stayed with the motor. Can someone confirm that the...

There is some more dialog on this a few pages back. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/brucontrol-brewery-control-automation-software.624198/post-9216342

What @swimsaid.. the manual on Brucontrol website is also a must read. As for the basics, I would look for Arduino tutorials. You won't need the programing piece as Brucontrol takes care of that, but you can find a ton of basic circuits that will help you interface with different devices...

The 175 pages of the Brucontrol thread should answer all of your questions. Much of it is prior to the uniflex, so good info on building it with arduino mega and other boards.

At some point it seems like a walk in cooler would be more space and energy efficient. I thought 3 fridges and a chest freezer was overkill. Oh, wait, there is a wine fridge too. And a glycol chiller. Never mind.

@passedpawn You just cost me $28. I like these also, only with beer in it. Or these for brown liquor or samples

Yes, but the neutral is only used in the lower current circuits, so could it see 50amp loads? I am not trying to take shortcuts, just trying to understand.

I just started wiring up my 50amp panel. For the incoming line, how should I terminate the neutral? My Din rail terminals are good up to 10awg and 30amps, but the incoming line is 6awg. The two hot lines go to the contactor and the ground is going to a lug on the backplane, but I am not sure...

@BrunDog. Do you have a schematic for Unicon build that you can share? Also, on your 50amp schematic on your site, you show 22ga wire from the L1 to a 1amp fuse feeding the key switch and estop. Doesn't this need to stay as 6ga upstream of a fuse or breaker?

Is there a tradeoff with using a smaller resistor? I am planning on using a 3.3V interface. Based on this I would need 165ohm for 20mA or 132ohm for 25mA. I have in hand 100ohm which would mean I would use 0.4 to 2V of the range (at 4-20mA). With 10bit resolution, 1.56mV per step. Typically...

The diagram is a little confusing. Where you have lines crossing that are not connected, you may want to show a gap so it is clear they are separate.

What size site glass do you recommend for monitoring MT recirculation?

A couple of questions: I bought some IFM flowmeters off ebay. For 4-20mA output, is anyone using something like this for voltage conversion, or just a simple resistor solution...

So these are npt threads without taper and an oring to seal, so they work with the BSP fitting on the SM6004?

It looks like it is limited to 158F. Do you use it for mash and sparge?

Great, thanks for the link.