Search results

I also see no reason for 2 elements. A 5500watt element can easily boil 10 or 3 gallons. You just need some sort of controller for it.

Not to hijack this thread, but do you have a link for the $45 plate chiller?

First off, the reason for copper is for the high thermal conductivity. The CPVC will act more like an insulator than a conduit for the heat. Secondly, since a wort chiller is for chilling boiling hot wort (212degF). I would never use a product that was not rated for that temperature. If i were...

For most of the cheap 1/4" solenoid valves the orifice size is 2.5mm... that's about .01 inches... less than 1/8". This restriction is probably the reason for the foaming. On the kegbot page they recommend using a 3/8" valve with the necessary reducing couplings for 1/4" line. This would...

i'm down for the 4th as well. I can't believe I missed this!

By my calculations, you actually could make it out of one sheet, you would just have a seam on the bottom of your kettle, which you probably don't want.

Video is awesome. Love the cheap solution.

3420 + 5 = 3425

http://www.mcmaster.com/#4464k586/=9vpxl4

By my calculations, a 5500W element at 240V will draw 23 amps or so at full load. That says I need some 10AWG wire. What kind of wire are you guys using? I'm thinking about just buying a nice 10 gauge extension cord and cutting it up. Is there some nicer rubber coated wire I should be using?

Sorry for the confusion. I didn't mean transitors or SSRs. I just wondered if I needed transistors and SSRs. I guess I'm just trying to minimize the amount of parts and wiring I had to do. I'm lazy. I think it's probably good practice to use transistors as it isolates the Arduino from the SSRs...

Anyone using an arduino digital pin to directly drive an SSR? Most of the input currents for the 40A SSRs I'm looking at is 10-20mA. I think the arduino should be able to handle that. I'm trying to build a very minimal system that basically controls 2 heating elements and has 2 thermometers...

Any more info on this deal? I can't find anything close to that price on ebay.

If you can find them used locally it's always cheaper. Search craigslist or post and ad on there. the shipping usualy kills you when you buy online and LHBS usually has a large markup.

The soapy water thing has been hit or miss for me. The easiest way for me to test a keg is to sit up upside down in a bucket of water. The bubbles don't lie. It could also be an air line leaking. What kind of clamps are you using to tighten down the air hose. Can you tighten those a bit. Make...

So instead of drilling out the fitting I cut an extra dip tube I had laying around really short, like maybe a quarter inch to just fit in the top of the fitting before it got smaller. It's probably not the most ideal setup but it seals now on that side. There's no reason that the gas dip tube...

Well it's definitely not going to work how it is now. The diptube sits down in the keg, not on top like it usually does. this causes the poppet to have nothing to press against. I think I'm just gonna drill the sucker out to fit a normal tube.

Ball lock kegs are 8.5" dia x 25" high. Pin lock kegs are 9" dia x 23" high. You can make some 9" round circles out of paper to see how many kegs will fit in horizontally. You can chop the handles off a corny keg, but it won't really matter because the beer and gas connections stick up higher...

I understand that the dip tubes usually have o-rings. This tube is smaller than the normal dip tubes I'm used to though. Are there different diameter dip tubes? I can't find them mentioned anywhere. If so where can I get an o-ring for mine. Or if this is some weird fitting that isn't supposed to...

Many times there's coolant lines in between the freezer and the fridge section of the fridge. You better be really careful when removing cause if you break a coolant line you might have a dead fridge.