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You are simply carrying on a practice that has occurred at English pubs for well over a century... probably not so much these days but once it was common.

With no chill brewing you are transferring boiling to near boiling wort into a hot cube. Boiling = bad for bacteria. The hot cube is filled to max capacity or pretty darn close reducing O2 ingress. No O2 = bad for bacteria. Then you ferment the wort where the yeast consume O2 (still bad for...

And then there were the yards at the largest breweries in the world, Barclay Perkins and Whitbread, in London. Stacks and stacks of barrels of beer left OUTSIDE in all seasons and all weather for 12 months. Or the mammoth porter vats that held beer for 12 months. Not just dark beers either...

I made a Christmas Ale many years ago. A small batch with only about a dozen bottles. I let the bottles sit in my closet for 12 months before ever chilling and cracking one open. We consumed about half that first holiday season and I left the rest in the closet and my wife and I enjoyed one...

Questions about botulism abound on this forum. You can do a search and see what has been posted in the past but in short.... your are boiling the wort... then the yeast consume oxygen and produce alcohol. All things that kill or inhibit botulism from forming toxins. Put this one aside and rest...

The last time I made 10 gallon batches it was on this system...

I wasn't going to contribute to this dead thread but @Cowgirl asked a new question which deserved an answer.

If it's an all-grain recipe then yes.

I hate, hate, hate cleaning up hop trub so I use a spider. There is probably some lost isomerization but I compensate by adding about 10- 20% more hops.

Once upon a time not too long ago IPA was nearly a forgotten style. It was early American craft brewers in the late 1970's to early 1980's looking for something "new" to make who revived the style. Two emerging brewers made pilgrimages to England to research IPA...Fritz Maytag (Anchor Brewing)...

I've used Oxiclean to clean all of my equipment for a dozen or more years including plastic with zero issues.

I decluttered by determining what I did not need anymore and gifted it to someone just getting started.

For 100 years or more breweries didn't give their beers names all that often. The breweries used letter codes. X was mild (XX, XXX, XXXX were stronger versions of mild) PA was pale ale... and for the longest time even IPA was simply noted asPA AK was a version of pale ale Brown ales were DB...

I used that book because it has a dozen or more recipes for each style all in one place. My point wasn't the source of the information but the wide range of Amber Malt recorded. And then it pretty much vanished in favor of a little Black Malt for color.

It could be a variety of reasons. The diameter or the length of the serving line can cause excess foaming as can over carbonation. So can temperature differences between the keg (cold) through the line (warm). The most reliable way I have found to carbonate beer in a corny keg is to set the...

In Ron Pattinson's book, The Homebrewers Guide To Vintage Beer he lists 16 Porters ranging from the years of 1804 to 1940. The least Amber Malt in any of these is 2.83% and the most is 34.48%.

My alcohol consumption has dropped by 90+% over the past couple of years. I haven't been able to brew due to shoulder problems for over a year. I finally had surgery earlier this summer but I still cannot lift anything over 5 or 10 pounds. I bought a 4 pack of Dragon's Milk Stout about two weeks...

The other forum is a recipe database of tried and tested recipes.

My fermentation takes place in my basement as well. It finally dawned on me that I don't have to carry all of the wort downstairs at once. Now I carry only a couple gallon at a time in a sanitized bucket downstairs to my fermenter.

Yes, you can just keg it. I keg and put it in the keezer right away. Be patient and try not to sneak too many samples because they really do get better after a couple months of conditioning.