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I brew outside in the garage or I brew in the basement in my laundry room. The garage has no water service and the laundry room is very cramped. There is no room for even a small holding tank. I thought with the portability of that unit I could carry it to either location and ut it away when not...

Here is what I am considering. https://www.hbrewo.com/shop-1

I've never experienced scorching during the mash on an Anvil Foundry. The temps shouldn't get high enough. If grain dust/flour gets out of your bag or basket then it can scorch during the boil and that comes with a risk that your heating element will shut down.

I have an idea of what's happening here but could you explain what we are looking at?

I was going to say it looks like invert sugar but held back because I'm not educated enough on the subject. Glad others who know more than I do chimed in.

There was a guy complaining on the Beersmith forum a month or so ago about the change to high fructose corn syrup. I don't make a lot of Belgian beers but I can see how this would piss off people.

Thread titles that don't say what they're about?

Not in quart jars but I use that method in a Dutch oven.

You shouldn't need rice hulls with BIAB.

That's nuts! I have never had to do anything more forceful than bang the edge of the lid all the way around with the heel of my hand. And I have never needed a special tool to remove them. Go back to your LHBS where you bought it and make sure they didn't give you the wrong lid for that bucket.

I agree with dmtaylor. I love the traditional American C hops, English hops, and European noble hops.

Hop characteristics evolve throughout the beers life. Mostly it fades. Oxidation results in beer turning darker and tasting like wet cardboard.

When you said you use Beersmith I knew immediately what your problem is. It is essential, imperative, crucial, vital that you create a customized equipment profile if you want accurate estimates from Beersmith. Or any recipe software really. It doesn't matter if you find your exact system in...

I have two Hochkurz mash profiles set up in Beersmith. One is 122°F to 155°F and the other is 144°F to 160°F. The latter is the standard you will find in most articles and discussions on the topic. I must have had something specific in mind when I created the first profile but for the life of me...

Unbelievably I had someone from another social media platform accuse me of having a confederate flag in my garage. It's a British Union Jack. The wall behind my brew gear is unfinished drywall and since I have a YouTube channel where I make mainly English styles I wanted a nicer background for...

There is no need to rehydrate either.

I use Briess 2 Row Brewers Malt by the sack for most of my brewing because it's affordable (for my budget). When I am able to splurge I will buy a bag of Munton's Maris Otter.

Are you using software to create your recipes? All software has an equipment profile that has to be tweaked and dialed-in if you want accurate estimates. If you are consistently low on your OG then I am willing to bet your equipment profile needs attention.

Do you have a craft brewery in your area? See if they will add an extra sack in their next shipment.

It's about the volatility of the hop oils. Aroma and flavor hops boil off first so the early (usually 60 minute) additions impart only bitterness. The shorter 30, 15 or 5 minute additions were/are intended to retain the aroma and flavor compounds.