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Continuous conversion is an issue for commercial brewers not for homebrewers. It's due to the scale. Our 5 gallon batches goes from mash to boil in a matter of minutes where it can take much, much longer for a commercial batch. In the time it takes for them yes, starches can continue to convert.

That is definitely not a fly sparge. As pointed out its a pour over sparge. Most, if not all, all-in-one systems are basically BIAB systems and BIAB was designed to be a full volume (no sparge) process. That is what I do with my Anvil Foundry. However many AiO users do some some sort of pour...

Your input is always valuable Bobby. Don't let the ass-hats keep you silent.

This is the kind of question where 20 people will answer and you will get 25 different answers. You just need to experiment by adjusting the gap yourself until you find what works for you and your system.

I use brewing software so scaling recipes was not a problem. I suggest using a boil kettle that is 15 gallons or larger.

Dude! Chill the *** out! Bobby is one of the most respected members on this or any other beer forum. He gave you one daw back for whole hops and then asked a simple question. I have an answer for you as to why English whole hops are difficult to find but you don't deserve it.

I don't consider any of Papazian's recipes "old". But then again 80% to 90% of what I brew come from Ron Pattinson or Edd Mathers blogs where they revive recipes from the 1800's. One of my all time favorites that I have brewed many times is this one... 1880 Whitbread Porter 9 lbs Pale Malt 1...

The OP is about cleaning bottles before filling with beer. Not yeast slants.

You don't need to sterilize any of your equipment including bottles. You only need to sanitize.

I need at least one but wouldn't mind having two.

Did you ever determine the shipping costs of the 2.5 gal kegs for me? See earlier PM.

Not compared to some of the recipes I've collected from Shut Up About Barclay Perkins. The last two Scottish recipes posted there each had 8+ ounces of of hops in the boil... and one was a stout!

I would start with a water test from Ward Labs. They have a test geared specifically for homebrewers that tests only those things that brewers are concerned with. Once you get that you can use software/spreadsheet like Bru 'n Water (free) to calculate what additions you need for your brew day...

You can solve your boil over issue by using Fermcap S. Just a couple of drops as soon as the boil starts rolling will knock it down. As for upgrading to larger kettles I have use the Anvil Foundry 10.5 (on 120v) with great success but there is a limit to how much grain they will hold. If you...

Oh no!

Thank you for the correction. True story about the Brewing America hydrometer: I dropped my test sample tube on a concrete garage floor. Shattered tube right? They are made of glass after all. Nope. The glass rim around the bottom on which you stand the tube up with broke and that's all. I was...

Just get a quality hydrometer and be done with it. You can't beat the ones made by Brewing America...

I used to use a Rapala fish scale but now use an Ultraship Ultra 55. I noticed that this was what the guys at my LHBS use so I bought one. I am very happy with it. https://www.hopcraftsupply.com/products/ultraship-55-scale?_pos=1&_sid=7054b5ef8&_ss=r

Also too there were many manufacturers of corny kegs and they did not all use the same size threads or fittings. I did a spring clean of all of my kegs once and took them all apart at once not knowing this. I ended up with several kegs leaking constantly because I had put the wrong posts on the...

It happened more than a month ago but I just found out today... beer historian, author, and teacher/lecturer Martyn Cornell has passed away. I just shot him an email about a month ago asking a question about his new book on Porter. When he didn't reply as usual I figured he was busy on another...