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yes, I made double sure it's food grade co2 since it was my first time doing it and my old tank looked like a welding tank lol I didn't want them to give me something else. Guy made it sound like all their co2 is food grade by default. the address sounds right, it's the one on shop rd off I-77

That's strange here, Airgas columbia, I just swapped out a random old rusty 20lb co2 tank I picked up on craigslist for a grand total of...$15.

can I get a code?

no stray wires. not sure exactly what happened, I used one of those outside electrical boxes that is feels like really cheap metal painted grey from HD, then I used contruction adhesive to attach it to the keg, the ground from the power wire was then tied into that, so the keg was never actually...

correct

Actually grounding the power cord to the keggle did the trick, helps to actually do it right I guess ;). Also seemed to fix weird issue with my SSR not wanting to work correctly so I'm good to go! Thanks for all the suggestions.

The 1" SS fitting is welded into the kettle. I got a outdoor electrical box and attached it to the keg with construction adhesive, the power wire enters the electrical box in a strain relief connector and 2 hots connect to the element. The ground connects to a ground post on the electrical...

shocking keggle could be the title of my latest chapter of my current troubleshooting my newly built electric BIAB keggle setup. In the process of testing out a new SSR, the heating element would not respond to anything, at one point I leaned over to look in the keg and my lip touch the top...

Has anyone had any luck with this clone? I had the porch rocker in a sams variety pack and really like it!

you can find the auber ones for like 1/2 price from chinese sellers on ebay if you can wait for shipping. most are bright enough, I think the green one I got is barely notable, though could just be a bad batch.

The first one was doing something different, it seemed to be leaking voltage from the output side to the control side, i.e. I was seeing AC 120V on the control + post, it was a cheapo chinese thing so I wasn't really surprised but expected more from the Crydom. Either way the ebay seller agreed...

put load on the ssr, no change, the SSR always leaked regardless of voltage on the control side. Sending the SSR back to get a new one. Guess I won't be brewing this weekend :(

I checked out the PID its working as it should, the SSR output is pushing 12 VDC when it's supposed to correctly. However, with the SSR having 120v on one of the output ports it always has same voltage on the other output port, regardless of control voltage. I even tried disconnecting the...

yes I'm using a quick disconnect for the temp probe, and I'm using specific K-type wiring on both sides. The PID does read the temperature that appears correct (I haven't verified with a thermometer but reads ~70 degrees for room temperature water seems about accurate. Also the heating element...

yea the cord is basically an extension comes with 4-prong plug on one end but the other end is the 4 wires exposed so I just used that end directly in my controller. Crydom is supposed to make good ones (industrial grade), I picked up a like new one on ebay for $10.

get the power cable that has the GFCI built in, that's what I did. I think was ~$40 shipped that way you don't have to mess with the panel, plus the cord is very long itself (maybe 15'??). Hosfelt Electronics, they don't always have it listed on their site so you may have to call or email...

The temp sensor is hooked up, not sure what setting is configured in the PID but it's displaying what seems to be the correct temperature (using K type sensor). I will check out the voltages with the scenario you suggested later today.

Put together my 240v controller based on P-J's design for single PID / single element. Using Auber 2352 PID, contactor, and ebay SSR first now Crydom 2440 SSR. Got everything together and all the physical switches work but the PID doesn't appear to be cycling the heating element based on the...

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