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I've tried 3 different elements and have yet to get one into a 1" half coupling. Just my experience. P.d.

i read somewhere that unless made with distilled water, the starsan in a spray bottle will eventually become ineffective. i got tired of making up sanitizer every time i wanted a gravity sample, so i started washing my wine thief with plain tap water and soap. i've done that for 3 batches now...

i bought an aluminum anode at home depot and put it in the HLT and boil kettle as needed. i'm not completely sure, but i think it needs to be in contact with the metal it's supposed to protect as well. p.d.

i prefer to let my primaries go for at least 2 weeks. i have yet to brew a recipe where the final gravity is achieved in a week (not to say it can't be done). it's always close, but i find a second week usually drops the gravity a few more points. giving the yeast time to do their thing is...

what initially caught my eye was the low profile and unthreaded CPVC through-wall fittings. for version 2, i'm contemplating: - moving to a 2-3kW low density element rims system - ditching the coolers, and moving to stainless HLT and MLT - installing bottom drains on the HLT and MLT for...

while contemplating version 2 of my herms system, i came across mcmaster's through-wall/bulkhead pages for the first time. i'm not sure i've ever seen these parts referenced on HBT before (apologies if they have). anyway, for anyone looking for plastic, stainless, threaded, unthreaded...

i agree. this is how mine is oriented: i've never had a problem achieving or maintaining pump flow. what i do is preheat water in the HLT, transfer over what i need, recirc in the MLT until the water hits the calculated strike temp, add grain, then start the pump up again. p.d.

just to throw my design into the mix, in case anyone wants to try it. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/yet-another-bulkhead-design-pics-126782/

yeah, magnesium's better. but practically speaking, these things are meant for hot water heaters where they have a much larger surface area to protect. my guess is that in this context, the difference in metal type doesn't matter. our HLT's and boil kettles also don't have liquid in them 24...

i dropped an aluminum anode in mine after the same thing happened (did the same thing for the boil kettle). i bought one at home depot. it was kind of nasty looking, so i covered it with aluminum foil for something a little cleaner looking. rust problem solved. p.d.

since we're on the subject, is the only difference between 100 and 200 amp service the panel? buddy of mine with 100 amp service has enough spots open for both a 240 and 120 breaker, and wants to go electric. i'm not sure about the stove, but the central air and dryer both draw quite a bit of...

i'm sure this delay is pretty par for the course. after starting the upgrade in february and thinking i'd be done in 2 months, i finally ran the first brew on the new system. flipping on the HLT to pitching yeast was about 6 hours. i'm sure that'll go down once i've got a couple batches on...

inspired by the electric element in my HLT, here are pics of the bulkheads i made up for the water outlet and sight gauge. i tried out silver soldering on a garbage nipple i had laying around (ignore the sealant on the other end). i used stay brite #8 and stay clean liquid flux. washers are...

i know you probably fixed it already, but auber has all the manuals on their website in case you ever need or lose a copy. just go to the product page for whatever PID model you have, and there will be a link for a PDF file. p.d.

i don't think an RTD will solve the problem. i think it's just a quality control issue. i ordered 2 rtd's for my system (HLT and herms loop). HLT is spot on, the other was 9 degrees off at mash temps. strangely enough, they all read ice water exactly the same. to be sure it wasn't the PID...

The Northern Brewer Homebrew Forum • View topic - soldering copper and SS scroll down to the middle of the thread.

that pretty much sums up the boston area as well. given it was a freebie (friend of a friend), i'm hard pressed to complain. i doubt i could find anywhere else that was much better even if i paid for it. p.d.

nope. it was free. i'll probably pick up an aluminum oxide grinding stone for my dremel and neaten things up, unless you think that's a bad idea. ironically, after i dropped it off, i found the threads on silver soldering. anything else i do will be that route. p.d.

things appear to have gone well. minimal to no warping on the locknut. a little warping of the kettle, but it also could've been from them flattening out the area to make the welding easier. leak tested with hot tap water until i can wire up the element. goodbye propane :)

i guess i was a little vague on the original post. i want the o-ring/gasket/whatever you want to call it to make the seal, not the threads like a typical male and female NPT seal. i'm having the welding done by a welder, not myself. all the posts i've seen here have only mentioned welding...