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i used this to make holes for 22mm switches on a nema 1 metal enclosure. http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Tools/Hole_Cutting_Tools/Knockout_Punches_-a-_Accessories_-_Fractional_-a-_Metric_size/109225 mounting the 2 PID's on my enclosure was a pain. i used the metal...

the enclosure comes with standoffs built in. you order a panel to fit into it separately. they both came from automation direct. the enclosure is part number N1C162008LP. the nice thing is you can build the panel outside the box, then just bolt it in. the breakers came from mouser (part...

my first build used the bulky 175 amp distribution block that seems to be pretty popular. i've made things a little easier for myself with my current project. for anyone wanting something smaller, modular, expandable, removable, and all around easier to use, DIN rail terminal blocks are the...

i really think you should pick up a multimeter with a continuity tester: http://extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=48&prodid=269 a continuity tester tells you whats connected to what. for example, on my control panel, if i stick one of the multimeter leads on the 120V feed (black...

i think you need to do more homework before plugging that thing in. some notes (i don't mean this to come across harsh here): - i don't think there's such a thing as an NEC box. you probably mean NEMA rating. not a huge deal there. - you said you had a black wire going into a grounding...

for what we use these for, they are massive. i switched over to DIN rail terminal blocks with jumpers for the control box i'm working on now. http://www.mcmaster.com/#7641k51/=61plp9 edit: fixed the link. p.d.

i've got stranded THHN in mine now, and planned to use it on the new control panel. if you get any feedback outside of this thread, please post what you find out. i'd love to find something easier to work with as well. p.d.

I looked at automation direct. They sell the same stuff, but I think it comes in bulk amounts.

for version 2 of my brewing system, i'm trying to stay away from the high amp distribution block i use now. i'm also trying to use DIN rail mountable stuff, and came across these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7641k51/ http://www.mcmaster.com/#7641k15/ for example, plug power into the bottom...

on the 240V side, split the output of the SSR. one will go to the heater and ultimately meet up with the other hot leg. the other will go to the LED then the neutral line on the 240V inlet, effectively giving you 120V power for the LED. this won't trip the GFCI breaker either. p.d.

i'm thinking of using circuit breakers instead of fuses for my next control cabinet. anyone have any input on one of these, say for running a march pump on? http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Altech/1BU2R/?qs=QGk6feVlqMLrn03Hh4R%2f1w%3d%3d i see different curve ratings (B,C, etc.), but i'm...

i've toyed with the same idea. the only potential issue i see is there might be some dead space on the element side (i.e. minimal or no wort movement). figure 2" of the element is in the triclamp to NPT adapter, then another 2-2.5" to reach the flow inlet on the tee. with a 1.5" threaded tee...

i use a lot of flowmeters in my lab, and unless you dish out some serious money, i wouldn't trust one to use as a flow totalizer. i'm tossing around the idea of putting a shipping scale underneath either the mash tun or HLT in my next build to measure water. p.d.

anyone have experience with these? comments? http://www.technical-controls.com/support_docs/FastTite_data.pdf these are FDA/NSF approved, seal via O-ring, and are good to 212*F. if a leak forms, all it takes is a new O-ring and grab ring to fix. they're sold via US Plastics, and are...

figures... just when i thought i could abandon silicone tubing and hose barbs.

i'm in the process of replacing my cooler based herms with a keggle based rims. my plan is to go with 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD polypropylene tubing: http://www.mcmaster.com/#5392k41 and polypropylene compression fittings: http://www.mcmaster.com/#5016k456/=5d1wik...

you think it would cheaper/easier to just weld on a SS 1" locknut instead of retapping the NPT thread of the coupler?

apologies for the quasi-hijack of the thread. one more question. the end cap where the element screws in, will this be straight thread or NPT? i have yet to get an element to fit into an NPT fitting. straight threads would pretty much sell me on one of these. p.d.

that's pretty sweet looking. a couple of comments: - assuming it's mounted vertically, is there anyway to completely drain it besides undoing the triclamp? there will be liquid trapped between the inlet and heating element. - any plans to make one that can be horizontally mounted (i.e...

i'm trying to make up my mind on what kind of tubing/piping to use for the brew system upgrade. i came across polypropylene tubing and compression fittings on mcmaster, and was wondering what you guys thought? is this stuff generally leak free? i'm trying to keep the pump inlets 5/8" or...