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buy some 3/8" silicone tubing, and 2 of part number 53055k138 from mcmaster. p.d.

Getting an element and bushing to seal is a roll of the dice. Sometimes it works as sawdustguy showed, sometimes it doesn't. Out of 5 elements I have 2 fit into a bushing and 3 didn't. P.d.

I built the standard 1.5" nipple/tee/bushing rims chamber. The bushing where the element goes is aluminum instead of stainless. I also bought a 1" npt tap and threaded the bushing deeper until the element gasket sealed. Unless you've got the right equipment, I'm not sure you could manually do...

i'd also put some cable ties on those hose barbs. an accidental tug on the pump tubing, and you've got a 150* disaster on your hands. p.d.

your pump is oriented wrong. put the inlet facing downward and the outlet upward. that's how i've got mine and have never had a problem. p.d.

i tracked down some pictures of the setup derrin has, and i like the idea of jacketing the tank with coils instead of building an insulated chamber. i'm not too keen on the idea of dismantling an AC. instead, what i'm leaning towards is using a chest freezer with 2 reservoirs. a smaller one...

Is the alarm a light, sound, or both? My main concern is having to listen to a buzzer going off anytime the upright is powered on. Who is the manufacturer of your upright ( either of you that posted)? Thanks, P. D.

a DIY on bypassing the digital controllers would be great. i think i've decided to go in a different direction. i'm going to build a chamber just big enough to fit the conical. the chamber will be cooled indirectly by a 5 ft3 chest freezer filled with water bottles (for thermal mass). i'm...

that was my first thought, but everything that has removable shelves also seems to have a temperature alarm built in. conversely, everything without a temperature alarm seems to have cooling coils in the shelves. i'm not sure i trust myself trying to physically disable a built in alarm. if...

Yeah, I saw something like that, but those things are freaking expensive. I'll probably just try building something. I'll have to dig through the threads to see what I can find.

i was hoping to find an upright fridge or freezer that would hold one of morebeer's 14 gallon conicals (which is on my list of upgrades, don't own one yet). i took some measurements at the local sears, and fitting one in there seems tight. i want to be able to ferment lagers (without...

thought i'd throw this in to the pot for people building a RIMS system. i originally had a 304 SS bushing for the heating element. all the high watt 240V elements fit into it fine. i then bought a 2000W 120V element to go in it, which of course didn't even come close to screwing in. i...

it won't work. each hot leg sees the full current. using 2 simmerstats doesn't divide the current in half. if you haven't read it, there's an electrical primer on here somewhere that will help you out a lot. p.d.

the accuracy of the PID controllers isn't usually the problem; however, i found the auber RTD's to be of dubious quality, or i could just be really unlucky. i bought 2 last year. one was off by about 6 degrees, the other 15, from a 150 degree water bath. i recently bought 2 RTD's from...

just another thought on the flow sensor...i do batch sparging. if the sensor doesn't allow flow in both directions, it could act like a check valve and prevent complete system draining. i can't really tell by looking at the spec sheets how the innards of this thing work. p.d.

those GEMS sensors look cool. i checked around the website, and they have much cheaper polypropylene sensors that might work. http://www.gemssensors.com/content.aspx?id=1106 does this just get directly wired inline with the SSR/PID? the literature mentions stuff about circuit protection...

i was looking to use it as a sacrificial anode. i've got an electric HLT and rust formed on the element base just from sitting overnight in water. i can only guess the same thing is happening to the RIMS element, i just haven't taken it apart yet. putting an anode in an HLT is easy, and i...

i don't. i want to keep the electric element base, which is mild steel, from rusting. p.d.

while pondering ways to prevent rust in my RIMS heater (1.5" NPT stainless pipe fittings), i checked out the various 1.5" to 1" bushings available at mcmaster. it looks like they have a 356 aluminum alloy bushing. i don't know a heck of a lot about aluminum. anyone have any comments? good...

i used the same ones as ohio-ed. i had planned on going with XLR audio connectors, but just happened to come across these while at radio shack. p.d.