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I've never had a problem bottle carbing. Also, I really hate buckets. I am only using glass carboys now for their ease of sanitizing, and their clear-ness, and their impermeability.

Whoa, I don't think there was any hostility there. Calm down e'erbody.

No way, not highly debated at all, at least around here. The only possible way you can get MORE off flavors from a long primary is if you leave it on there for months until the yeast die and lyse, releasing their cell contents into the beer (but this would be extremely obvious in taste: tastes...

Only 5 days? Most people leave the beer on the yeast for about 3 weeks to let the yeast clean up the higher "fusel" alcohols you're probably tasting (and esters and other off-flavors). In fact, a long primary is usually better than a short primary, then secondary in my opinion.

I have tested it to make sure the output of the 555 works as suspected. Now, just need to get my mosfet and should be able to see if the rest works.

If that were the case, they'd skip the pot and just hook a power supply up to the motor. Besides, I know mine throws the stir bar if I start it too fast depending on the size bar I'm using.

That's what I was talking about when I said resistor voltage division. Until you turn the pot up to about 1/3 or 1/2, the fan won't move. I hate that, because the lower end of the speed range is gone.

I did a search on the forums, but I can't find a post about a simple PWM controller for stir-plates. I have tested it, and it works great. Any way, here it is: Schematic & Build Diagram In Action R1 = 22k resistor R2 = 100k pot (use the middle and one of the end pins) R3 = 4.7-10k...

No prob. Measuring the boil-off rate with water is perfectly fine. Just be aware that things like humidity and the temperature of the place where you do the boiling affects boil off, so it's not going to be exactly constant from batch to batch. Would you mind posting the recipe ingredients...

Because when you do all grain, you will obtain wort from the mash. Otherwise, you are just starting with an empty kettle. This is the full-boil equipment posted above (note I just posted a revised pic), since the instructions are "boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible is...

Whatever quantity is in the "final top-up" water is how much you add after you're done boiling, or that you'll only boil for like 5 minutes, whether you add it in the fermenter or to the kettle. If you're doing just full boils, use the full boil equipment above. Also, be careful if the recipe...

Your equipment should look something like these

Yeah, feel free to post the equipment and recipe. I don't know why, but phonon seems to be treated differently in different distributions, and cmake cannot seem to find it sometimes :/ Glad you figured it out.

You need to set up an equipment especially for extract batches. The relevant parameters are "kettle top-up water" and "final top-up water." The kettle top-up is how much water you are putting in the boil. If you are doing a half-boil, this is something like 3 gallons, otherwise, like 5.5...

So, my version came out fairly well. I let it ferment for a week, capped and let it ferment more in the bottle for a week (to carbonate), then pasteurized in the bottle to kill the yeast. I was a little afraid of the bitterness when I first brewed it, but it settled down. I wish I would have let...

Did you download Qt?

You don't need to boil the chocolate. Add it at flameout and the alcohol generated during fermentation will leach the chocolate flavor into the beer.

The widget is pre-fermentation. This is the way Ray Daniels does it, and like you, I've never heard anyone talk about FG/IBU ratios, so I figured nobody would utilize such a number. If people want this, then I can add it. Don't worry. It's not an issue. Yeah. People keep asking about this...

Contest is plugging along. Fill in those zeros in the submissions count!

Thanks for checking on this Mik.