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No need to do an uninstall. Just delete the folder that it's in. PM me the details about your system and we'll see if we can fix it.

Maris Otter is just the brand name UK 2-row, which is already there. You can make a separate Maris Otter entry if you want, but it makes no real difference.

Yield is a relative quantity in relation to how much gravity pure glucose (corn sugar) would add. If we are talking in points per lb/gal, then since glucose gives 46 points per lb/gal, your agave nectar would have a yield of 28/46 = 60.9%, and your grain would have a yield of 33/46 = 71.7%.

Hey dude, originally from Clemson myself. Yeah, what you did is technically "no-sparge." Some people do it and tend to get somewhere between 50% and 70% efficiency, and that's fine if you're ok with it. I really don't think you gained anything by trying to do a mash-out at 172F. If I were you...

Completely agree. Like others, I'm not sure how a 5 gal HLT is too small for your recipes, but as soon as you get yourself a dorm fridge and an Auber controller wired together, your beer will jump by 10 points in competition.

Is there a specific reason you want to do 15 minutes instead of like 5 minutes? If not, later is usually better. If you need the 15 minute addition, just be aware that the actual bitterness will be a bit lower than what is reported, but it's not that big a deal since all the approximation...

I don't know what to tell you man. I formulated it by hand and came up with 1.047, I used Beertools' free online calculator and came up with 1.047, Brewtarget says 1.047, TastyBrew.com says 1.044, the Beer Recipator says 1.045. I can think of only 3 options: 1) That bag of liquid extract is more...

First, was it liquid or dry extract? If it was liquid, could it possibly be that you used a 6.6 lb can instead of 6.0 lb?

Mik, Great catch. I guess Beersmith ignores the percent yield if the type is changed to "Sugar" in which case it assumes the yield is 100%, therefore giving him the required 6.17 lb of equivalent glucose.

jvcjbl, There is no way Beersmith is correct on this one. Let me formulate it by hand to demonstrate: ==Grains== (2/16)*0.72 +(6/16)*0.74+(2/16)*0.70+(10/16)*.74 = 0.9175 lb of glucose (maximum) ==Sugars== 6*0.78 = 4.68 lb of glucose ==70% Efficiency== 0.9175*0.70 + 4.68 = 5.322 lb of...

It's just a bug in 1.2.2. Not right now. But could be a good feature. In the upcoming 1.2.3, all these lists are now sortable by column. So for example, you can sort hops by addition time or type or amount etc. Is that good you think?

If it is starting to taste sour, then it is infected with acetobacter or something similar and it will only get worse over time. The only thing you can do is wait and watch. In the future, use star-san on anything that has the potential to come into contact with the chilled wort.

Just to make sure, you are entering the following "150 F" into the field for temperature (that's 1-5-0-space-F) right? To me, the mash designer is the easiest to use. Start it, select infusion, put "150 F" as the temperature, then drag the infusion volume or temp slider where you want it. If...

I realize. I was just hoping there was someone here who has it (probably more than several people on these forums) and who is nice enough to disregard the "no lending" policy. I promise I'm not nefarious. I just would like to read it...and don't have that kind of dough to throw around.

What do you mean "which ones?" It's the title of their book (and CD). http://www.amazon.com/dp/1881696170/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Does anyone have the ASBC Methods of Analysis CD or book? If so, can I rent it from you for a while?

Ah yeah, there is a small issue with the current revision's calculation of ABV. Internally, it is first calculating ABW then converting to ABV, but ABW to ABV is not a very accurate conversion. Will fix this before the final release.

In 1.2.2 it is using Dave Miller's approximation ABV = 130*(og-fg) from The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing, 1988, Storey Communications. I think your formula given above pretty much agrees with Miller's.

Like I said, most people like the book. However, I wasn't trying to say the styles are outdated, but that the recipes are getting to be a little "throwback." They don't even sell many of the same malts and hops anymore, and homebrew recipes are evolving rapidly.

Yeast need to be active to clean up "green apple" esters. This means they need to be warmed to their recommended fermentation range. You may be psyching yourself out, but if you are concerned, let other people drink it (especially fellow homebrewers) and see what they say.