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I've thought about that. I just really don't want to have to buy two more dryer cords (4 wire) and a 4 prong outlet which is why I am now skipping around the idea of just borrowing a ground from another outlet. Sorry, I guess I'm really just looking for reassurance that I won't get shocked as...

I guess I could borrow a ground from a nearby 120v outlet using a modified plug.

I realize that would be ideal but the dryer plug in my apartment is a three prong. I've read places that the neutral on a Nema 10-30 is bound to a ground in the breaker box, if that is true then it should have a grounding affect if "grounded" to the BK, correct or no?

Not to steal this thread, but I am about to wire up a 3500w heating element for my brew kettle using the Nema 10-30 plug for my dryer (3-wire). I plan on running a 3 wire dryer cord into a 50a GE GFI Spa disconnect and then on into my control box (PID, SSRs and the such). I realize with a 3 wire...

I think an explanation of the circular objects in the room would help people out.

A loss of aeration within the wort over time?

I thought I was going to see something like, "When you are using a propane burner be sure not to let the gas run too long before lighting it." Not, "Hey, when you are sticking your arm through a hole you cut in a water heater to get to a wort chiller be sure not to gash your arm on sharp edges."

Nice! I've looked at that before. It's funny to see a items from a home brew shop that is local to me posted all over a forum. Congrats on the beer. How long is the conditioning period for it?

There must be a Siren in your keg, nice. One of these > Not one of these >

Thanks for the input. I went ahead a bought some solid 12awg and some stranded 12awg. I'm using the solid for terminal jumpers and the 120v wiring within the control panel then I'll use the stranded to run the power to the element from the SSRs.

I picked up a 1" conduit steel coupler lock-nut at Home Depot the other day for <$2.00. I too had thought about going the copper reducer route but for $10 bucks I decided there must be a cheaper way to go.

Yes, I'm using two SSRs. Is the 15 amp load the element pulls not split 50/50 between the two hot wires? I thought there would be 7.5 amps at 120v going through each hot leg. Edit: nevermind, I'm an idiot. There is 15ish amps on each 120v leg. I'll switch to 12awg wire. Thanks for catching my...

Sorry, I forgot to mention I am trying to run a 3500 watt 240v element. The dryer outlet is on a 30 amp breaker.

I just wanted to run this setup by the forum to double check my input power setup for a heating element with temperature control. The power is coming in through a 3 prong dryer outlet via a 3 wire dryer cord, obviously. The picture is pretty self-explanatory. Okay or not?

Sorry for all the questions about the pump but could you shed some light? I can't find a Barracuda pump for anything close to under $60 bucks. I can't find any pump that pumps 1500gph for anything close to even $100.

This ^ and how was your bill under $60 pump included minus the container?

Ah ok, I'll look for that. Sorry for the confusion.

You didn't, but thanks for the information.

Is the PID you posted in your parts like the "1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (Relay Output)"? Thank you.

I was told by a Home Depot employee that sounded like he knew what he was talking about that you wouldn't be able to paint the black pipe easily because of its special coating. I guess it isn't just painted black. Just a heads up.