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That screw in the housing is for ground... not neutral. I built my still dragon kit much different from standard. I made spacers to mount the heatsink mostly outside the box. Where the center flat area is sits just proud of the lid surface and I sealed around with high temp RTV. This...

Negative. I really only need a 30A but but would have gotten a 50 for expansion options if I could have found one at a similar price.

First off.... i`m not selling these and have no relation with/to the seller. I looked for 6+ months for a fair price on a 30A/50A gfci and had no luck. Cheapest I found was around $85 shipped. If you are in a similar position I had a positive experience with this seller...

Interested in a roll of that 3/8 tube if you decide to split.

If you have time to build, it's much more affordable. In my case I barely have enough time for my wife, kid, parents, church, and work. I feel guilty enough taking most of a day to brew and clean up since my daughter is too young to do it with me. If I'm going to upgrade without it taking...

Subsea Engineer for the oil and gas industry. Can't beat the sunrises...

+1

I've got a question for one of you lucky souls that's gotten on already. I saw a post earlier that says the racking arm cannot rotate downward past horizontal. Would one of you please rotate the racking arm as far as it will go and see how much dead space there is before water starts coming...

dibs on the breaker... PMing you for payment details.

After a lot of consideration on my side I'm leaning towards working with the keggles I have a while longer until I save up enough to spend a similar amount on a whole new system. What I have in mind now is a BK, MLT, and HLT setup from Stout Tanks in 15G size and electric element ports. That...

<== Sees the line and checks his phone to see if it's black Friday already.

I think your best bet is to get a fitting the bottle neck will fit into and then drill 3 holes around it for thumb screws to hold onto the crown. Similar to the way globes install on a ceiling fan. Using brass thumb screws would fit the style well.

Another recommendation... most household outlets are only rated for 15A. I would suggest pulling the outlet you intend to use and verify it's rated capacity before you start running.

You need to do the calc (or use the calculator in Beersmith). Hydrometers can be calibrated for different temperatures so Beersmith doesn't make an assumption and gives the post temp correction value.

If you haven't already bought the ebay PID I think you'd be better off with a phase angle SSR to control your boil with a manual knob. Use the two Auberin units for your MLT and HLT. That's my plan except I'm going to use a BCS-460 instead of multiple PIDs

I think they just respond slower to changes in temp. That could result in PID overshoot. Seems like with a simple change to the code the same hardware could maintain HLT temperature and control a pump for a HERMS mash control. I am, of course, assuming it could handle a second temp sensor...

Seems like a fair price for a complete system to me... give us some pictures and feedback after your first brew.

I believe these will only show a light for the switched function. I don`t think they have a separate light circuit like the indistrial control type switches. You could probably modify it to work, depends on how comfortable you are with electronics.

In