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If you did the 30 minute test and are confident in the results, I would suggest you look at other steps throughout the process to account for losses, or lack therof. At the end of the day you can shift the numbers to whereever and get the right volume to fermentor, but I think it helps to know...

I think that is the point of the meme...note the small brain in the first one to the enlightened one in the last.

FYI - Grow Warehouse in Colorado Springs (Reliable Circle location) will fill CO2 for <$5...even 5lb bottles....the other locations only fill larger sizes.

Boil-off is, as you seem to already have an idea, a funtion of kettle diameter/height...so the ladies and gents using keggles or 15 gal kettles are indeed boiling off north of 1.2 gal/hr...but when I was brewing 1.5 gal batches I used a 3 gallon kettle (sauce pot) and my boil-off was .65...

I assume you're doing full volume mash (no sparge). The correct vlume of strike water will depend on your grain absorption (factoring how much you squeeze), boil-off rate, hop absorption rate (typically 0.04 gal/ounce), plus other losses your system may incur. 1.2 gal/hr sounds VERY high for a...

I am curious...do you guys get different boil-off rates depending on how vigorous you boil? I get the same whether I simmer or have a hard rolling boil... At any rate, I don't think your boil vigor is the issue, you just need to compensate for what you boil off and not try and control the boil...

Welcome to the forums and the hobby. The thread Revvy pointed out is a great resource for your mashtun build. There are plenty of threads with different ways of accomplishing the same task...get familiar with the search bar at the top right of the forums...your beer will thank you for it ;)

https://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/#Advanced

I always lose a few points of efficiency when I use a lot of flaked grains...it's just the nature of the beast.

I have stopped bringing up the fact that I homebrew unless someone specifically comments on it or has a deeper passion for craft beer than the average bear. Most of the typical responses have been well documented in this thread, but the one that gets my goat is when people ask my wife if she...

Welcome to the hobby...say goodbye to any extra cash you might have had! Where in CO? I am in the Springs.

I have a buddy near Orlando who might be interested...

You could always split the batches between two fermentors and pitch 1 vial into each. Obviously, you would need to split the dry hop additions between them as well. 2 vials should be enough, typically, if you don't want to make a starter, you need to pitch double for beers over 1.050'ish...

Same as above...my thoughts in red.

This is a tough situation to weed out...but I think there is an easy place to start. Try brewing something with RO water and see if it happens again, that will rule out your water and you can start taking a look at equipment/process. My gut tells me it might be something that is there all...

It's pretty easy, but keep in mind it always just an estimate...the attenuation numbers on the yeast package are not perfect. The easy math is to take the last numbers of the gravity reading, in your case 64, and multiply is by (1-percentage of attenuation in decimal form)...so: 64 * (1-.75)...

Do you know all their system details? For example, what is their boil-off? I'm betting their boil-off doesn't scale linearly either, which will mean you need to start with a higher pre-boil gravity to get the same OG as your recipe. I know that going from 5 gallons to, say, 7BBL, you...

Brewed this last Friday with a small adjustment (all Chocolate 350L)...got really lucky and stumbled on the last package of WYeast 1450 at my LHBS! Pretty excited to see how it turns out with this yeast. Hit all my numbers, actually a little better mash efficiency than I had anticipated so OG...

I'd say so, he uses a thicker stainless kettle. I dunno, I am leaning back to it being a yeast issue now...we are going to brew together this week and do the same exact recipe and compare the results.

Highlighted in red is where I think your problem is. How I believe the refractometer with ATC works is that it only adjusts for the temp of the refractometer itself...IE if room temp is 70 degrees, then it will adjust readings for samples at that temp. If you read a wort sample at 160 degrees...