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Typically you treat both, except your sparge water pH is okay if it is more acidic...so you won't add any acid to it, you only need to add stuff like calcium chloride and gypsum.

That is very strange. Although, gravity readings need to be taken at the temperature your hydrometer is calibrated to...even at 80 degrees the reading shouldn't be off a great deal. For a wheat beer to finish at 1.030 is very high. What was the recipe and what was your volume to fermentor?

Usually fruit will float to the top when the available sugars have been digested by the yeast...just let the peaches tell you when they're ready.

Honestly, you probably won't notice much of a difference. And most of the time the calculators undershoot (in my experience and/or poor inputs to the calc). Even when I made sure to give the temp that the beer was at its warmest (co2 comes out of solution as temp increases) I still usually...

Welcome, I just moved back to CO from Arlington/Alexandria...was a member of GRIST Homebrew Club, if you haven't yet, check them out...awesome group of people.

Welcome, Colorado Springs here

Odd 13 and from what I hear Woods Boss are making some banging NEIPA's. If you have the ability to make it out of Denver, I would recommend you try and make it to Weldwerks.

It i possible we have different carboys but I know I have checked mine a few times and the lines don't match. The only way for the OP to know for sure is to test his...but for now, since the carboy is already full, it's best he find another way to estimate its volume.

That's not true...those ridges do not mark gallons. I used to think the same thing until I tested it.

You will lose some weight to dust and the like, but losing 10 Oz seems a bit excessive.

I'd use all distilled / RO.

Your process sounds more or less sound. But I think maybe you're looking at the wrong thing to fix your issue. The way I read it, you want a hop juice bomb...correct? This, in my humble opinion, is more a function of recipe than process. I'd say 90:10 Recipe:Process. If you are looking to...

My buddy has cascades, I believe they are on their third year and we harvested 2 Fridays ago. I think he said this was a little earlier than he wanted to harvest but because they were on his in-laws land and they are 3 hours away in Byers, we kinda had to pull the trigger.

Just remember, you don't control flow rate with PSI, you control it with line length. These are some factors to consider in this regard...do a quick google search and you will find some pretty basic formulas to help you decide what the right length of serving tube you need. I live in Colorado...

Like yo usaid...water is a very complicated subject. Even those of us who think we know what we're doing with our water;really don't. For a new all grain brewer it can be extremely overwhelming to try and know everything before they perform their first brew. So much so that they get stuck in...

Don't worry about the water right now. Just focus on getting through the brew day and once you have your process nailed down then you can start worrying about the micro-stuff such as water chemistry.

I mash at 149 to 152...with so much juicy hop character, I prefer having a dry finish.

Before making a decision, I suggest you stir the living crap out of the wort to make sure it is mixed well. A common mistake in new brewer, and some old, is that they get bad gravity readings because they don't mix well or they don't cool the wort to the appropriate temp. So, do those things...

Modified or not, rests matter. Try brewing a hefe with a single infusion mash and you will be underwhelmed.

I went back to a traditional method once I had the room. BIAB seemed the way to go when I was constrained by space limitations (renting a room)...and I was brewing 1-2 gallon batches. Now that I am back home in my house and I have a garage I have a 10 gallon cooler I mash in for 5 gallon+...