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Yes, ALL grains go in the mash tun with the strike water. They remain there for typically an hour. There is no steeping in all grain. The mash is the equivalent flavor extraction process. DME can be used to add additional gravity points to the wort when the gravity does not reach desired levels...

Yep, too cool to carbonate. 68 (20c) upstairs is still a bit cool. The basement is likely cooler slowing the process even more. It often takes 3 weeks in the low 70s to get decent carb.

Yes, it is/was fermented warm but then so we're all your previous batches. Look into ways to lower the temp for future batches. Water bath, swamp cooler, ice, refrigeration, will all improve the final product. The question was... No more bubbles, is something wrong? No. Likely just a slight...

Just ferment it in the coolest area of the house (within yeast temp range) or do the swamp cooler (sit the fermenter in a tub of water with a wet towel over it to wick moisture) Ferment an absolute minimum of 1 week but you should really go for 2 weeks to allow it to clean up and clear up. If...

I don't know that it will take longer than what ever you have experienced in the past. We don't know what else you did in either case and each brew is different. There have been "exbeeriments" that seemed to support that the beer fermented with all the trub ultimately was clearer than one where...

Or, if you just can't wait and want to have it almost ready when you return it is fine to bottle as long as it is finished fermenting. Check the gravity for the same reading on different days. Fermentation usually only takes a few days but there is benefit to leaving it longer than that which...

I don't know exactly how you might salvage a stuck sparge in your system. Like the earlier poster, I am in the cooler / batch sparge camp. In my case I would have stired the mash to loosen things up again. Reversed the flow (by blowing). Added some hotter sparge water. (But that might give me...

In it

Yes they will continue to age in the bottle. Stuff settles. Flavors meld. Most find that bottled from the keg beer has a much shorter shelf life. They tend to lose carbonation and may suffer from oxidation.

Yes. That was a stuck sparge. Material from the mash obstructed the wort from entering the false bottom. Yes. You did not need to abandon the entire brew. I would have found a way to salvage it that early in the process.

And enjoy a highly oxydised beer. Just leave it and learn from it.

It's mash temp on the high end producing less fermentable sugar chains and 66 degrees fermentation for the duration. Raise the temp somehow at the end of fermentation to aid in completion. Disregard the bubble count vs time elapsed. Bubbles are not a reliable method of determining fermentation

Exactly. Don't worry about it. Just brew the recipe and go for consistency. The recipe will have you use x lbs of various grains and you are supposed to get a specific OG reading after the boil. Your number may vary from that expected number depending on your system efficiency. You may have...

Hitting those temps is not that difficult. Calculators will put you right where you need to be. A suggested temp in the recipes is just that, a suggestion. Anywhere in that 150-155 range is going to be fine. None of this is really anymore complicated than what you already do. You already...

The 170 or so sparge temp is really for fly sparge. The temp stops processes of conversion that would continue over the lengthy period of time required to complete a fly sparge. If you batch sparge or similar the process of sparging is so much quicker that it doesn't matter.

The "tookit out" sounds a little impossible from a reality standpoint but everything will be fine. Yeast will do what yeast do and they all do essentially the same thing. Eat sugar, make alcohol. It may be slightly different from a yeast sourced flavor profile since there is no way you...

Short term I might wait it out. You could get a temp controller with a wrap around heating element to warm the fermenter. I shouldn't hurt the usual use of the keezer significantly as the thermal mass of the warmer fermenter would only raise the overall temperature a bit to a more normal range.

I keep a spare cooler on hand just for this purpose. Mash as usual in a cooler. Drain directly to the spare cooler. Cool to the appropriate temp. The cooler keeps the temp high enough to sour. Transfer to kettle for the boil. A Cooler Sour I have kept it in the boil kettle once without...

Yes this or a variation of it has been done and discussed. Unfortunately I don't recall the discussion(s) and I don't think it works out as well as you might expect. I'm sure one of the hoptologists will come in with details of the how and why

Think of it this way (regarding use of secondary) Why are you doing it? To get clear beer is the usual answer by most. The stuff on the bottom has already settled out of the beer. More will fall out over time adding to what is already there. If you transfer it to another container, the same...