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Will something like this work? Kinda Pirated it:)

Can't wait to see some test run results.:D

...It also needs a boney set of fingers or a skeletal hand coming out of the ground or from around the back of the toomstone like it's coming for you...Because you know it will be calling from the depths of the BMP (enter ghostly voice here) "Driiink Meee" once it's bottled:D Just a thought...

I read here or on Kal's sight that the low wat Density elements are a little more forgiving if fired up dry..

Yes, and maybe I should have been a bit clearer when I started this... I was only refering to the elements & other brewing related items being wired directly into the brewing pannle and not into the residental structure itself.

Great thank you, seems like an easy enough add on that without could ruin a brew day, with one semi drunk flip of the wrong switch....wait drinking, brewing...those don't go together at all:rolleyes:

Great...another thing to add to the build.. 1. lights to show power at element 2. Float switches HLT & BK Alright:D what are you using for a float switch? thanks for the input

Maybe some sort of chiseled effect then it would be:rockin:

This is basically what I have in mind my system is on wheels and once the electronics are installed they will not be removed on a regular basis except for some maintenance or trouble shooting issue. I just don't see the point in adding 4 plugs for elements, 3 (minimum) for temp probes, 2 for...

I was just making sure I wasn't missing something. My system is built on a rolling stand everything is plumed in with 5/8 od hard copper & stainless fittings, with the exception of my MT that is set up to dump & be switched out for a larger MT when more than 3 of us are brewing. Cleaning has...

In all these build posts I see everyone using plugs in and out of their boxes. why is that, wouldn't it be easier just to wire eveything direct do away with all these additional conections that are prone to corosion, wear or just fatigue? I can see if you are taking the system apart and...

Me too:rockin:

A sticky would be great just found the rest of the items I was looking for to complet my build:ban:

26 gal dead guy clone 12095.5

Needle valves for sure, just to be able to adjust the burners. I have my LP lines built at a local hydrolic shop, they also had adjustable regulatore (if you want to bring your burners to life:) I would recomend. I'm sure if you check around you will find someplace localy that builds them...

I'm wondering how many elements it will take to bring 20-40 gallons of wart up to boiling...i'm asking becuse my boil kettle is a 60 gal. pot (found at a scrap yard) I currently brew using propane but have been toying with the idea of going electric but havn't really seen..until now some one...

.....Um your in a shop...probably have a welder handy, weld the appropriat sized nut into the open end and install:) maybe angle them back slightly so the weight wants to lean back holding the tap in the closed postion if you think the weight is an issue..DIY allways feels better than buying...

Awsome:D Nice work:mug:

not sure but guessing the apropriatly sized hole saw would do the trick

10-12 psi I beleive is standard if you are planning on aging them in the keg and not drinking right away i think they would be fine at that pressure. imo:D