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I wouldn't see why not? I just used one of those brinkmann fryers with a buddy who got it for a gift. Great value for sure.

How do you dry hop in your keg? Thats my one enemy with IPA's is that time really isn't on my side. Do you use whole or pellet hops, in a hop bag I'm assuming?

That's the commercial quality clarity that I'm talking about with an IPA, I have yet to achieve that with a hoppy beer.

Jesus this is like a clear beer porn page, lol. Lotta great looking homebrew out there. Happy new year guys

Ok so pulled at sample of the citra DIPA and it's much clearer today, maybe I jumped the gun a bit.

I'm not too far off from your bottom two but you would expect a brilliant clarity from filtering down to 1 micron right? Maybe I'm just expecting too much.

That's definitely what I see when I chill^^^ I'd like to see some of your beers, maybe I'm not being realistic with my clarity expectations.

I'm assuming I'm getting a good hot and cold break, sometimes I do get allot of break matter into the fermenter but it normally settles out to pretty clear beer when I siphon it into my kegs. And I always try to siphon as high as I can to avoid sucking up trub. I'll post some pics of my recent...

I'm hoping its not something with my process, I always get great effeciency and my beers typically finish on target for the style (with a few exceptions of course). I typically use us05 or 1056 for most of my ales, unless the recipe calls for something different of course. But this kern river...

Normally 4 weeks sometimes a week more or so depending on when I keg spot opens up. 3 weeks ferment, 1 week carbing/crashing. I do notice the closer I get to tapping a keg it gets clearer and clearer (as you would expect as you pull more particles that drop out). Now I brewed the centennial...

So I have been struggling to get my beers commercial quality clear. I've been cold crashing and using whirflock, and even have been filtering as of recent with a 5 micron cartridge style filter. Everytime my beer remains slightly cloudy, even when it warms up. I recently just switched to a 1...

I use the auto siphon too, it's all I have ever used and I couldn't imagine using something else. I don't see how anyone could say that it's hard to sanatize, you just siphon starsan through it, takes a few seconds. I'll fill up my keg with sanitizer and just pump it back into the keg while I'm...

I like my kettles, tri clad bottom, welded fittings, big opening without jagged hand cut edges, easy to clean out grain, not limited to 10 gallons.

I believe that Lagunitas lil sumpin sumpin has victory in the grain bill, from what I read in byo in its IPA 2.0 article. They posted the recipe, I'd like to brew it.

I like having the thermometer on there when I'm chilling so I can keep the lid on and sealed from airborne contaminants as well as monitoring strike water. I still like using a floating milk thermometer for monitoring mash temps though.

I have also said before that brewing is allot like BBQ in that very small attentions to detail make one big difference in quality. And I think people who are into both are very close in personality. BBQ was my gateway drug, haha. As far as my neighborhood, I don't think anyone even notices...

You gotta appreciate someone who puts in the time and effort to give folks a place to learn the ropes (god bless YouTube lol). I found them very cool when I started, that being said I have learned much more from reading, trial and error, meeting homebrewing friends since then.

Weaving allot of times will actually help the appearance of a stainless weld (with the right heat of course) because as you weave from side to side the other side cools while still under gas coverage. Here's a experiment you can do as well if your not happy with the appearance of a weld, hit it...

I'd be willing to be a large gas lens will fix your woes, your beads look like you grasp TIG just fine. I use a gas lens on everything, so don't think that it's just for SS. You are using 100% argon correct?

Stick with a 1/16 tungsten unless your welding thicker material that requires more amps. It takes less amps with a 1/16 electrode to accomplish the same weld than a 3/32nd so basically less heat input. If your not using a gas lens that may be your problem, you must use a gas lens and crank up...