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I agree that a few minutes shouldn't be anything to worry about. Just wait and see what happens. I highly recommend making sure your equipment profile is configured in Beersmith so you can hit your temps right on. Then, come brew day, enter actual (or even approximate) values for your tun &...

I believe the number of plates refers to surface area, not pressure. The more plates, the greater the surface area where heat is exchanged.

The fittings are really going to depend on your setup. I got the hose connectors for the water in/out and male threaded fittings to attach wort in/out as I use camlock QD fittings. Works great. I also got the longer chiller with 20 plates - longer = faster cooling. It's awesome.

A neighbor of mine might be interested. I'll run it by him. We're just up in Jersey City, so easy local deal. I'll PM you if he wants it.

The spigot can probably take the heat (I've done it before) but pressing the valve for the amount of time it requires to drain the tun is not fun. I found that I ended up dumping the water out rather than use the spigot. Spend a couple bucks for a bulkhead and valve from Bobby_M or build your...

Yeah, dead space won't affect the temperature, just make it hard to get all the wort out. I tip the cooler, but really only have a quart of dead space at most. Now, lots of head space can affect the temperature drop, but if you use Beersmith, it will do a great job of calculating the strike...

The key is how hot was the water and cooler to start. I put 170 degree water in my cooler to get it to equalize at 152 degrees. So, is that drop huge? Not necessarily. Give it 5 minutes to equalize and take your first reading. Then take your second reading and see what the drop is. My Rubbermaid...

Well, to be honest, I've got a buddy with a welder and lots of experience - which is the only reason I'm tackling this myself (ok, not myself - but you know what I mean). I think I'll just use his stuff for free and keep my budget as low as possible. Thanks for the offer, though!

I'm in the planning stages myself and have never picked up a welder. I'm subscribed so I can see how you progress. Best of luck.

A large washer is all you need to back up those taps. I've got that same setup and it shows no evidence of failure and is plenty solid.

I would also appreciate it if someone could pick up my grain. I'm out of town for the holiday. I'm coming from Jersey City, so the farther north the better, but anywhere between here and Philly is fine. I'll bring a few brews as a thank you.

You must not buy much stuff.

Yeah, yeast starter gear has to be next. I did that long ago and it's key. Pump after that.

I have one of these and have used it for a couple years - originally as a boil kettle and now as my HLT. "Much thinner" would be an exaggeration. It's a great pot - much thicker than most budget aluminum pot out there. I've got mine all outfitted with Bobby M gear - sight glass, thermometer...

In your mash profile, add a step and enter the target temp. I also entered the amount of water to add, and it calculated the infusion temp based upon my equipment profile. I haven't tried it yet, but Beer Smith ALWAYS nails my mash temps dead on, so I trust it in this case too.

Also, Beersmith can calculate it for you. In a 5.5 gallon batch (of Union Jack) it just has me add 4 quarts of 207.8 degree water to my 10 gallon cooler to bring the mash up to 155.

Looks like I should add 1x CM-2ROW to my order.

I'll take the other 1/2 bag of wheat.

jclucca/dirtyvickers/willum/tojo - 1x BZ-DMUN Good with you guys?

So, I have 4 of us in for a bag of Munich. Sounds perfect. My first choice is CM-MUNH, but can go with whatever if there is a strong preference. As long as we keep to 10L or lower.