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Maybe you could rig up a weldless fitting in the mean time. McMaster Carr has reasonable overnight shipping if you can find what you need there.

+1 on the above replies. Ever seen a half glass of beer after it sits out for a week?

You do realize that when people talk about electric brewing we are talking about elements mounted inside of a kettle in direct contact with the wort. This system is far more responsive than gas because you don't have to wait for the heat to be conducted through the bottom of the kettle. It's...

1) https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/ 2) https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/240v-heating-element-1-2-ssrs-159897/ 2) https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ssr-heat-output-161818/ 2) https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/march-pump-alternatives-156554/ 2)...

I thought about this, but I prefer to keep the element replaceable so I can change it out at a moment's notice. I was very careful in the construction, and took no shortcuts with Kal's method; it's rock solid. No leaks, ever. For an added layer of protection, I applied a generous amount of...

I'm actually keeping an eye on the brewhemoths right now, so I'm interested in seeing how they design their jacketed kettles. Should be interesting to watch. I really don't want to keep a SS conical in a fridge, though with the insulation of a fridge, the efficiency would probably be better...

That's good thinking, River City. I'll remember to do that if I choose to go the refrigerator route.

Temps between 55ºF and 90ºF, as I rarely use air conditioning, and use as little heat as possible in the winter. River City, what size batches are you fermenting? I'm planning to do 10-15 gallon batches. Thanks for all the info!

I haven't seen any detailed discussions about the long term costs of maintaining fermentation temps. I'm specifically interested in using stainless steel conical fermenters, and I would like to choose the best system for heating and cooling that uses the least amount of energy as possible...

I'm just glad you're safe, Cybershadow. It is for this reason that I'm not a fan of heat sticks. I would never put electrical connections underwater, even though many hundreds of people do. I use the same setup that Kal uses, and it's never leaked. Never. Not even during testing; it worked...

The current consensus, among those who don't aerate by pumping in air or pure oxygen, is to shake the carboy/bucket for 5 minutes. I usually do this by rocking the vessel back and forth on one of its edges. Always use caution when shaking/handling carboys - they're freaking dangerous! Using...

Did you aerate or do a yeast starter? Both of those would help to dramatically reduce the time it takes for fermentation to really take off. And the correct temperature, of course ;)

I'm not an electrician so I can't give you any super valuable advice, but the biggest cost in making an extension cord that long is the wire. Seems like it wouldn't cost much more just to wire a circuit that's up to code. Plus, you could run something else like a light or something. I don't...

If you could bypass the safety features, it might work. I saw on another site that it is designed to heat water to 100ºF in a 5 gallon bucket, but it also says it heats water to above 150ºF. Sounds like you need to hardwire it and switch it with a PID. Might be kinda slow at only 1000w.

Thanks for the confirmation, Bobby - I thought that would be OK. I just finished all the wiring. Time to drill holes!

Thanks for the tip!

On second thought, I'm going to temporarily install a 30 amp breaker in the main box and use the 50 amp spa disconnect from Home Depot in line. It's just a pain to swap breakers every time I brew. Guess I'll just have to get to work on my brew space.