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Nice that's great to hear!! :)

The beer fermented for 14 days... think it was pretty much finished. The rotten egg smell went away after 7/8 days or so. When I decided to bottle I did not notice any smell then. But noticed a slight whiff from a young bottle... but it quickly dissipated. But yea next time I brew with this...

I have been seeing these but figure I would go with the Foundry 6.5 instead. Dont know much about Robobrew though.

Sounds good. I have one of those on demand water heaters (gas) ... boy does it suck. Have to run water forever before it gets hot.. and not really hot, only 120F or so at its hottest. So, that is why I have been adding a drop of detergent

So, after I get done pouring a beer, I immediately shake and rinse the bottle out with warm/somewhat hot water. I fill bottle half way up and then put 1 drop of dish soap in... then fill up completely. Let it soak couple hours.. then shake and rinse 2 or 3 times. I place them upside down in rack...

Nice ... hope so. This includes aging out in the bottle?

Yes a hint of rotten egg. My wife cant smell it, but my nose seems to be pretty good! There is no taste of sulfer.. just a whiff that seemed to dissipate after minutes.

Well I did the best I could. I have not made a starter before or do I have nutrients. But I did rehydrate and shook my carboy several minutes to oxygenate. Interesting, I was not aware sulfur smell was indicative of a stressed yeast.

So, I tested an early bottled Kolsch just to see how it was developing. Have to say .. think it will be good. I did notice a slight whiff of sulfur, however. This beer was fermented with saflager w-34/70 ... and yes it did throw some sulfer when fermenting. Will this dissipate with more...

Well this is 1 gal batch so every bit is precious. But I hear ya :)

Ok thanks. Will take a look

Thank you. After all the comments and further reading, I have been learning on this. I have intentionally ignored gravity readings on my previous brewing sessions... as all of this was totally new and just trying to take things a step at a time. So I am taking baby steps. :/ And I take it that...

I was thinking post boil .. but after reading online .. mash efficiency is preboil reading. I have some reading up to do lol. All grain is all new to me of course

whoops … yes thank you. Updated my posts with that correction

It seems like a sparge as last step... would wash any particulates filtered by grain bed from vorlauf back into wort? Conversely, doing a vorlauf at end would introduce sugars back into grain bed.

Yes, I figure that some are pouring the wort over the bed again as a vorlauf… help clear the wort. So, if one did this step it seems best to make it an intermediate step and not last as some folks suggest

Yes, this would be important to know. I attempted to take my first ever hydrometer reading but was having hard time taking the reading. The starsan used to disinfect tube caused a foam at surface... making a reading impossible. So gave up. Next time will disinfect prior to let dry and try again...

I brewed a couple all grain 1 gallon batches last weekend and have some questions on the mash/sparge. Here was my process: 1. Mash for 60 min @ 153F (pot in warm oven - no stir) 2. Separate grain from water via strainer 3. Moved strainer/grains to another pot; take runnings from step 2 and...

Yes I started with 1 gal batches with fizz drops. The drops were pain as they were too big to fit in many bottles without craming them in. But with 2.5 gal batches I may do the sugar solution/ bottling method. I also was trying to limit O2 by skipping racking

The density appears to be less in corn than cane. I weighed my corn sugar for each bottle using my small anvil scale... making sure ea bottle has 5.5g. So I think all is well