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Reply! Nice Gifts !!

After the engraving we would use a simple acid brush to dab on the solution and simply wipe it off with a dry cloth. It took maybe 30 seconds. Found this link that might help - http://engraverssolutions.com/PDFs/tips&tricks-color_filling.pdf

When I worked in an engraving shop as a younger man we used an acid base solution to oxidize brass, and I think aluminum, to create discoloration in the lettering. Can't recall the name of the stuff we used or the concentration.

Very similar ideas, nice. I plan on working out my ideas soon, will be great to compare notes.

Using a pump, valve it to recirculate to you boil kettle to you reach you desired temp while adding ice as needed.

My experience with coiling SS tubing is that you are tryin to change the "memory" of the metal. You are taking 50" of ss , which is coiled when you get it, and coiling in into a small diameter. The smaller the diameter the harder it is to coil without kinks. Add to this the wall thickness of...

Due to a question I am posing the response here for clarification about how my coil is attached in the Sanke. You can attach them to the side wall either the way maxout did in his picture how I did in the picture below. I had planned originally to do something different but it worked out...

Yep, I had the same result Max, Once the tubing was coiled, I used my tubing cutter to cut the coil in the correct spots then I had to slightly bend the tubing back to make the compresion fitting fit properly.

Very intrested on how this turns out. I am currently working with 1/2 barrel sankes to ferment then transfer to another sanke to bright/serve out of. Are you planning to ferment and serve out of the same keg?

You are correct Zues, I am using it to cool as well.

I am intrested the more I think about it. The question I don't know the answer to is how much would a homebrewer be willing to spend to have their SS tubing coiled to 10" to 12" coil? Let me know. If you had the coil, you would have to set it up similar to how MAXOUT picured earlier in the...

The Chugger has 1/2" discharge and as you explained in the above post is why I prefered to make the coil out of 1/2" to get as close as I could to the pump specs to not affect the pump curve. I would rather control the output of the pump to either get full flow from the pump when needed...

Attached is a picture of my first coil. The sanke top was cut out @ 12". You can see the top portion of the coil which gives an idea of how large a diameter I Started with. The picture is 1/2" od tubing very thin wall.

Had not thought to charge people to coil thier tubing but it sure would be nice to recoup some cash for the tooling. Send me a PM and we can hash out the details. I will try to find a picture to post showing you the coil in the sanke.

There is a solution. I coiled 35' of thin walled 1/2" stainless tubing to aproxamately to a 10" to 11" diameter. Without kinks! A piping bender will not work as I tried that first. You will most likely need to use 90/45 degree compression fittings once coiled as it is to thin to bend...

Mind if I ask how much you grabbed it for? I have a few sources for cheaper used equipment but they are mainly for restraunts, so it is more out of curiosity.

If you are going to house any electrical controls that require the space the box provides, this is a deal. The only thing I see missing is the back panel. You can buy plugs for the 1" and 4" holes if you need to. Great find.

It is made of brass, and it is NSF rated so you should be fine. I would be more worried about what the crimps are made of and if they woudl hold up.

I love the experience gained from DIY. That being said, the degree of time/cost comes into play. in the example of the stirplate, an extra $20 bucks over what it cost to build it myself is a deal. That time can be spent doing other things for your brewing. If it is a $200 difference then...

Hoppy, Thanks for your information. I am in process of finishing off my burners and your input is spot on with what I have been researching.