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Well, it's true barrels are quite big so if you screw around something you lost a lot but there is not as much risk as you may think. If the barrel is clean, if you keep it filled, watch the surface every week or so when filling up, taste the cider once in a while, the risk is close to zero...

You have to let it rest like 15 min. I usually remove CO2 line but I'm not sure it's really needed. The big advantage on cider to beer is it doesn't have much foam so it's easy to serve.

Barrel are not totally airmetic, they let air in and out so you will have a constant loss of liquid evaporating. As it also let air comes in, the top of the cider is in contact with air and the less the barrel is full, the more their is a big contact surface. So you need to fill it up once in a...

- Rinse your barrel with water, if possible rain water (no Cl in it) with some SO2, if possible very hot water, not too much, just put it into the barrel, roll it and get it out - Check if there is no moisture or funky stuff in it (putting an eye in the hole and checking the water when you get...

When I have time, for my keg, I put them under 3 bars - 3°C - 24h. When I don't have time, I put the keg a night at 3°C then plug the CO2, put 3 bars on it and shake the keg (or make it roll under my foot) during 2 or 3 minutes. Wait 15 minutes and it's ready to serve.

Actually I though you talked about TA and not pH, I often saw that pH is not always totaly corralated with TA and TA give a good idea of the tartness of apple cider, pH does not always. Maybe there is something about that. Anyway, about the oak chip, like for everything, it depend of a lot of...

Never tried powdered tannin, I always prefer barrel aged or chip oak addition, dry hop also do the job even if it generaly totally erase the cider taste. Anyway, I'm curious about your experience. Also I'm surpised that a Granny Smith cider has pH as high as 4.2, maybe it's because they grow up...

Well I think we can tolarate the dig out but telling all this this without giving a picture is quite harsh.

I must say I didn't search for any other advise or experience from anyone before doing it so it may have any reason for people to say it's not a good idea but I don't know what. But of course it is important to do it with a non carbonate keg or it can be very dangerous. I was looking for a...

Just a detail, I would backsweet before pasteurize. Just to be sure your sugar is also clean and won't bring some yeast/infection that will start back fermentation. Avoid also to open the keg after pasteurization.

Did you ever try Tepache? It's really easy to do and have a damn good taste of juicy pineapple if you drink it quick (if you let it go dry it becomes awfull).

I did. It was good. I let both apple juice ferment dry then I add just enough fresh pressed pineapple juice to ferment and carbonate into bottle. The pineapple taste is quite light, I would double or triple it (and pasteurize) to have something more present, also, beware that pineapple juice is...

You can add more sugar than you need to get the bottle carbonated and then pasteurize the bottle. See the sticked thread about it.

The classic process is more about stopping fermentation before totally dry to keep some (often a lot) residual sugar. To do that they use chemical (sulfite+), filtration (remove yeast) or temperature (pasteurization). As a homemaker, both chemical or temperature is quiet easy but need a bit of...

Not a miracle solution but sweetness tend to balance and so attenuate biterness. Then backsweet it should be a planB.

Could you tell what you dislike in your perry?

Use a false bottom to protect you rubber from the heat.

50l (±13 gallons) I can pasteurize 3 soda keg int the same batch. As I'm also homebrewer, I already have it but here we can fing it for 50$, maybe a bit more today.

You can pasteurize the keg into a big kettle or use chemical to kill/stop yeat and then force carbonate it.

Could you explain this part. Majority here uses airlock from start to end I think.