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With my day job hat on (electrical systems on superyachts), the smallest allowable wire size for carrying power is 16AWG, and the smallest for data/signaling is 18AWG. FWIW, I've also seen some cables that are multiple individually shielded pairs of 18AWG conductors encased in a single jacket...

So it looks like Brock's Home Brew in Melbourne, FL has gone Tango Uniform. That leaves exactly one LHBS (that I know of) on the East coast of Florida from Key West to at least as far as Melbourne (Craft Beer Cartel in Fort Lauderdale), and the guy that I spoke to today said he's not sure if...

@clearwaterbrewer, I've run several water brews since replacing the three CCS PT-100s that I originally built my rig with. I used stubby little Auber probes mounted in a ½" NPT housing. The thing I did differently is that I ran the leads directly into my enclosure, and made sure that they...

DigiKey: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20009209-01/223-1927-ND/10209619?WT.z_cid=ref_Globalspec_buynow Definitely not CCS.

I'm assuming that we are all discussing 3-wire PT-100's. Is anybody using a lab-grade 4-wire PT-100?

Kidding aside, I don't care if the reported value is 500℉ off of the actual temperature, as long as the offset is linear. I just replaced three CCS PT-100's (admittedly with a couple of connection points in the signal path) with Auber PT-100s with factory cable run directly to the RTD amp...

You should watch out for those caps lock typos. If you're not careful, they can make an ass out of you.

You have just saved me several hours of labor. That's the exact thing I'm going to be addressing tomorrow. I'll clean a bunch of that up tonight, and then cook some water to find the others! Thanks, mate!

Made some good progress today. I took the lessons from @Die_Beerery and jumped in with both feet. My desktop is now a reasonable facsimile of the physical brewstand (pics attached). I just need to replicate and duplicate the flow animations across the remaining valves, and I will be done...

For those of you in colder climates, those are live temps from my garage, in case you had to spend the day shoveling snow or something.

tbh, he did a whole lot more than just the animations. Opened my eyes to some really cool stuff to make the workspace HMI a whole lot more intuitive. The pic is work in progress, but it's a quantum leap forward for me.

I looked hard at Kal clones, CBPi, and BruControl when I was getting started. All systems need an enclosure of some kind to house both the power devices like breakers, SSRs, and contactors, as well as the sensors and relays that are used on the low-voltage side of the system. Right out of the...

You should mount the SSRs with heat sink compound, not silicone.

@HobbyBrauer I see now that the terminal block is a double-stack, and it looks like you have segregation between neutral and ground there. However, the close look also shows some really confusing gauge changes on the high-voltage side of the SSRs as they pass through the pair of terminal blocks...

No pics, but there is an added benefit of drilling and tapping: If you run a screw into the leg just below the plastic inserts, you have an emergency backup if one of the little inserts fails with a kettle full of boiling wort.

@HobbyBrauer, a lot of what you've done in your enclosure looks really nice. But, I have a few questions: Why the use of DP breakers for 120VAC circuits? You have what appears to be a terminal block that joins the grounds and neutrals (next to the left-hand SSR). Why? Why do you neck the...

Since DC power is more susceptible to voltage drops, I'd put it in with the controller and relays. One 120VAC circuit from the power distribution box should cover 5, 12, and 24V supplies.

@day_trippr what is the reason not to? I work on power distribution systems for $40m yachts, and all DC negative, AC grounding, and cathodic bonding systems are tied together at one point in the vessel. Everything is maintained at the same potential. Furthermore, that is the requirement for...

Glad to see you getting going. Pretty good group here. We'll help you along. Most enclosure manufacturers offer a metal back plate. Get it and use it. That's how your rail will be grounded, and it will preserve the ground integrity throughout the enclosure. You definitely don't want a...

@Die_Beerery, I was just looking at your pics of the DIN rail carrier hack (awesome, BTW) and I'm sorry, but I have to report you to the UHC (Unused Hardware Commission). I counted eight unused relays in the last photo. Good God, man! Don't you have a shoe buffer or a bug zapper that you need...