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Doesn't exactly meet your requirements but you could try it uning an arduino. Maybe serial out to IGOR. Price is right anyway:) http://www.hownottoengineer.com/projects/fuzzy-urn.html

If you can swing it the ferrules do help give those terminations some extra insurance (and make your panel look more prof). I got a cheap crimper off of amazon and was pleasantly surprised. Not a pro tool but will get the job done without swearing...

I'd try silver soldering(4% low temp) one of these in the end of the tubing http://www.ebay.com/itm/311128867058?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Sounds like you Pid isn't maintaining setpoint or you're not getting a true exit temp. If the temps are reading correctly you prob want to re-tune. Fundamentally your mash temp should always be less than your rims discharge while heating/maintaining temp. Couple of things to try if you...

I did this as well and am using a 3/4" diameter pipe to keep the velocity up. I have two 15" cartridge heaters on either end of a 36" tube. I've only tested on water but its working pretty good.

I'm in the process of setting up a hsi ignition(S8910U) with 2 solenoid valves that provides a low/med/high heat output depending on which valves are open. I've tested out the solenoid valve setup but haven't finished wiring the HSI up yet. You can check out a video of the valve and manifold...

I always check craigslist and inspect thoroughly before I buy.

If available, I would add the com ground connection. RS485 can work as 2 wire(done it for testing), but its really a 3 wire network. Any robust 485 network will use the 3 wire config. Good link for explanation: http://www.chipkin.com/rs485-cables-why-you-need-3-wires-for-2-two-wire-rs485/ More...

Its been many years since I looked at sizing a heat exchanger and even then I never tired to model flow transients, so someone else may be able to chime in and correct any errors here.... So the calc can be done buts its a kind of a pita :(. As you increase the water flow rate, the inlet...

The ones you linked to are solenoid valves (on\off) that can be sized to provide a given flow when open. I did find a different group of valves on that website that will take a 200hz PWM signal to control flow but they need 40psi+ supply pressure and max out at about 0.8gpm. Interesting find...

Not sure exactly what you're asking, but this should get you started... http://www.brighthubengineering.com/hvac/61166-preliminary-heat-exchanger-design-example/ Side note, re-read my last reply on tuning and realized I sounded like a bit of a DB. Was multitasking and work emails were making...

Could be, won't know until someone tries. I need to get a couple of these anyway so maybe ill order them this week and do some testing when they get here.

Just to clear things up a bit, while there are a lot of people including controls techs and engineers who treat tuning as an art, its not magic. For SISO (Single input single output) systems like this we can quantify system response and stability margins of the loop. For most of what we do in...

This will get you in the ballpark as long as your system isn't loosing a ton of heat to the air. Pop this in a spreadsheet.... Wattage needed=(160*step amount*(Gal water+lbs grain*0.6))/Time (mins) needed to heat water Lower watt densities are a good thing. I'd go for a 240V element that...

Bingo:)

could you provide a link for the one that has true position feedback? the only ones I've seen have limit switches at 0% and 100% but not full feedback. in terms of control we don't really care what position the valve is at unless its at a stop. Rather we just need to be able to modulate it...

Just pinged you some (alpha) code. As for the calculation, its basically Q = m Cp dT I enjoy doing this work and helping people out ....but in full disclosure I'll be using this same approach on my rig, so it will be nice to have worked out the bugs prior to implementation on my build. :mug:

Here's what the control logic looks like right now....

yeah I've been a bit mia. Wife is out of town and I have the kids so free time is at a premium. That being said, now that you are adding the sensor to the rims inlet I can set up the control more like what I had planned for my system. Instead of cascaded loops which tends to lead to a slower...

Ahh makes sense now. Sofor reference, large lags do make tuning more difficult and will lead to a slower overall response. I would definately at a minimum add some sort of thermally conductive material in the thermowell. Ill see how well we can tune it up. thanks for the link to the Arduino...