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Nope, that's proper procedure and exactly what I would do. Hell, no! I'm surprised you haven't started that yet, given the extra 7-10 days you've got. ;) Are you going to use some of that starter slurry you had put into the fridge for your new starter? If so, estimate how many cells you have...

Sorry to hear you need to downsize. :( Per our Classifieds Rules, can you please add pricing for each item you're selling? 5. All merchandise posted for sale must have a listed price. List only items you have for sale. Do not buy or sell for non-members. Thanks in advance, and wishing you good...

"Flaked" rice is (most likely) pre-gelatinized, similar to instant rice. So you can use it directly in your mash. Or pre-boil it in enough water (say 30-60 minutes) until it's a thin soup/paste, then add it to your mash. Mash for an hour, as usual. Whole rice (kernels) are not pre-gelatinized...

I've never had WY1318 climb up the walls like you're describing. But I've always been adding a drop of Fermcap-S per 1.5-1.8 liter starter when boiling. That seems to keep foaming down well enough. And the starters are always kept at room temps, around 72-74°F, rarely much higher.

No, they're nothing alike. They sanitize in different ways. One of the main differences is that a Iodophor working solution is only active for about 12 hours, max. On the other hand, a Starsan working solution can remain active for as long as several weeks, months even, depending on how it's...

That's my preferred method for cleaning and sanitizing: by submersion. Rinsing is simply done by running tap water through the hose. After the first rinse-out I catch the rest of the rinse water in either the sink or a tub.

Looks like that spray ball really works dandy... <Ugh!> :(

That! ^ I've never had leaks when using the next larger size tubing as couplers doing gravity feeds. Even using a March pump they all stay together, as long as there's no restriction on the output end of the tubing. ;) Although splice barbs will work, they drastically reduce the inside bore...

As @Maylar said with some diligent racking you leave the solids on the bottom behind. There are things and methods that help transferring mostly the cleared mead off the top to the secondary, leaving the (trubby) lees behind. Tipping the fermenter somewhat by sticking a rolled-up towel under...

Sure! And as I mentioned before, once "active" fermentation has completed, you should fill those secondaries up to an inch under the stopper. So plan your volumes well, so you don't end up with half-filled secondaries. ;) During transfers any exposure to air (Oxygen) is unwanted, as it will...

One "gnat" (fruit fly, perhaps?) may not add enough AAB to ruin your starter, especially when it contains enough alcohol already. Reasoning is, most homemade starters* (not in a sterile laboratory environment) are likely tainted somewhat but seem to work fine. You could let the starter finish...

Not just the syrup... The yeast ferments most or even all of the sugars you've added. Sugars from the honey, fruit, and other sugar containing additions. That produces alcohol and CO2. The (tiny) CO2 bubbles create foam. Controlling your fermentation temps toward the lower end of the yeast's...

Looks very nice! As @Maylar already said, those jugs are way too full! You're best off transferring some of the mead from each jug into a (small) jar or bottle for each, to prevent it from spewing out. Aside from glass, small plastic soda or water bottles are fine to use. If you don't have...

Thank you for that tip!!! Using the basket as a grant is among the best ideas I've read in a looong time! That way, hops (and any other solid additions) swim freely in the full volume of wort. When it's time to recirculate and chill, drop in the basket/grant, being a huge filter screen to keep...

I think it's certainly worth the effort, so wishing you good luck with that project!

Dang! I just thought of a quick fix. You could simply cut out the gapes and insert a (short) piece of silicone tubing (1/8" wall thickness), clamped down with Oetiker clamps (or just stainless wire). If needed, create some extra stability by tying one or both ends of the repaired piece to the...

Plate chiller here, 40 plates from DudaDiesel. All hops need to be bagged or basketed in the kettle to prevent them entering the plate chiller and clogging it.* I use large, fine mesh nylon "steeping" bags that get drained to refresh the wort inside every 5-8 minutes, or so. * Among smaller...

Thank you very much for sharing your recipe. It looks truly sumptuous! AFAIK, I don't think I've ever seen your recipe... I did a search for it and you're mentioning it quite often: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/search/9793192/?q=triple+chocolate+stout&c[users]=day_trippr&o=relevance alas, the...

Be informed, PBW and "Oxiclean" are 2 different products. Regarding PBW There are 2 main ingredients in PBW: a) ~70% of Sodium PerCarbonate (the main ingredient in Oxiclean, and similar off-brand products) b) ~30% of Sodium MetaSilicate (generally sold as "TSP/90") as well as a little Sodium...

Sad to see this... Now that hole can be fixed with a coupler. Or 2 couplers and a short (1 inch?) piece of copper tubing. Make sure it's the only hole.