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Uh... I would contact Kegland first, and get an opinion on what the problem can be. You can directly contact them here, they are a member on our forums: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/members/kegland.336191/ If it's indeed the pump and there's no warranty on it, spending $50 to get one from...

Thank you for adding the prices. Good luck with your sale!

Sorry to hear you're leaving the homebrew hobby. :( Could you please add prices to each item your selling? It's in our forum rules: 5. All merchandise posted for sale must have a listed price. List only items you have for sale. Do not buy or sell for non-members. Thanks in advance!

In the picture on the left, those white rectangular "boxes," along the right hand side of the interface board, are (micro) relays. That's probably what you hear, making a sharp click. It's very typical to use relays to interface between the control electronics and power elements, such as motors...

Pitching actively fermenting "starters" is always good practice, it helps to kickstart your upcoming fermentation. But beyond that, if you allow the starter to grow larger over a couple or more days (yeast mass can double every 6-12 hours), you can grow much larger amounts of yeast, for...

FWIW, they're mostly yeast cells, not just hulls.

The beauty of these magnetic drive pumps is that it's unlikely the seeds have damaged the pump, even if they stopped the impeller from spinning, since the motor and the impeller are magnetically coupled. IOW, the motor can spin freely regardless of what's happening in the pump housing. So yeah...

To propagate your dry yeast by making a starter ahead of pitching will work wonderfully, but you'll need to allow some time for it. I'd give it at least 24 hours in a warm-ish place before pitching. If you don't have a stir plate, or shaker, the s-n-s (shaken-not-stirred) method will help to...

That's can very well be the issue. Does the washer feel dried out, not much compressible anymore? The nut should be tightened enough to sufficiently compress the washer to make a positive seal. That, without stripping the threads. :) Hooray! That seems to point to the original washer, just by...

Thanks for the pictures! They really help to understand what you're dealing with. That spigot assembly is very different from the ones that I've seen and commonly used in the U.S. For one, in the picture of the "nut" I don't see any threads in it. Is that just a push-on type? If so that would...

Are you using EVA Barrier line? If not, you may want to consider it, as it will mitigate oxygen ingression through the (long) line. The only drawback vs. vinyl line is EVA is not as flexible, and needs a larger bend radius, to prevent kinking, so plan on that. Or use 90° elbows where needed. I...

There are different kinds of spigots and assemblies. First, make sure the rubber washer/seal is on the inside of the fermenter, between the fermenter wall and the (large) tightening nut. The rubber seal can be dried out, (semi-permanently) compressed, or otherwise damaged. An old or deformed...

Sad to hear that! :( But it's obvious, you've got a leak somewhere, losing CO2, big time. You've got to find those leaks and fix them. Put some Starsan working solution (not concentrate) or "bubble juice" around each of the fittings with gas connected and look for foaming or bubbles, Don't...

Oops... That link sends us to a Proof and Tralle hydrometer, used in distilling to measure the % of alcohol in distillates (and no sugars present)! Here's a link to the same brand (Brewing America) hydrometer: which is what you'd need to measure sugar content (gravity) in wort/beer...

Not just for final gravity readings. As soon as alcohol is present in your sample, a refractometer correction formula is needed. This due to alcohol having a much lower refractive index than water. The higher the fraction of alcohol in your sample, the larger the difference between the reading...

It could be out of refrigerant due to a leak somewhere in the system. Or the piston in the compressor is leaking, not compressing the gas into a liquid. Repair costs on refrigerator units like those tend to be relatively high, usually not worth the money, unless you "know" someone. Can you...

That's (red) 5/16" ID gas line. It's probably 1/2" OD, so the inside hole of the grommets should match that, or be a hair smaller for a good friction fit. But... since you're building, using EVA Barrier line instead of the red gas line is recommended. Also use EVA Barrier line for the beer...

Just a note on using heating devices... A heating device is not always needed, especially during active fermentation. As we know, fermentation generates heat, so in most cases only cooling would be needed to keep the temps inside the narrow fermentation range we are aiming for. That prevents...

No, not really, the freezer will be shut off by your add-on controller before it gets anywhere near those extreme low temps. The location/placement of the sensor (probe) that comes with your controller is important in that. You could use a small (computer type) fan to recirculate the air inside...

No-one ferments at 30°F (-1.1°C) or 2°F (-16.7°C). That would be much too cold for any yeast to ferment. Those controllers have a set temperature. That's your target fermentation temp, say for example, 60°F. The 2°F points to how far the temp is allowed to deviate from that set temp. For...