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No worries. Not taking it as such. Google didn't turn up a lot of results for the problem you're experiencing, so I think those experts are going to best direction to go.

If you're still having problems, I suggest posting a help thread on the official Raspberry Pi forums. They're better equipped to support their hardware than we are. We don't doubt you have problems, we just aren't able to reproduce them, and as such, have a very limited amount of...

While we appreciate feature suggestions here, the following is the page we'll use to gauge public interest (and select our next projects). http://raspberrypints.com/suggestion/

Did a little searching and confirmed what I suspected all along: If you'd like to turn it off at a specific time, you can add a cron job to run tvservice -o, but that's beyond the scope of the support we provide.

I haven't experienced this on any of the monitor models I've tested: Dell 30" 16:10 IPS U3014 Dell 24" 16:10 IPS U2414M Dell 23" 16:9 IPS P2314H LG 23" 16:9 TN W2361VG-PF LG 22" 16:9 TN W2252TQ-TF Lets first confirm that everything is setup according to the instructions. Namely...

Kinda. Check out Page 6. http://www.curtisint.com/html/custservice/manuals/IGL_FRF1049_ENFR.PDF

Don't forget that it includes the thermostat, so you can save yourself from buying and wiring a control. The popular Johnson A419 is $80 pre-wired, so that's a pretty substantial savings.

If you'd be so kind as to post the rest of the dimensions in Post #4, I'll gladly add that model here.

That's... super disappointing. All of the 8.8 cu ft models can fit 6 ball locks and 5# CO2.

Or you have an unstable power source / are overclocking on an undersized power source.

Best Buy shows that Igloo's width as 40-1/4", which can't possibly be right for a 10 cu ft class model. Heck, my GE 7.0's are wider than that. For reference, the Danby is about 49" wide. The depth and height are very similar to the Danby, though. You need a ~17" interior depth to fit two rows...

If you have a feature request (even if you've already mentioned it here, in another thread, emailed it to us, or sent it via carrier pidgeon), please note that we now have an *OFFICIAL* feature request system. http://raspberrypints.com/suggestion You'll be able to vote on others'...

You didn't need to buy anything. No-IP subdomains are free. Guess you got an extra special custom one, eh? You missed this post...

Jinx, you owe me a Coke! ;)

Since you changed the port, I'd imagine it's now localhost:8888

Try this: http://www.noip.com/support/knowledgebase/installing-the-linux-dynamic-update-client/

This. Custom boards don't start to get into the realm of reasonable prices until you're ordering 50-100+ boards at a time. And then you still have to solder.

Close. #1 and #2 are correct. In the case of No-IP, it would be: 1) Sign up for a No-IP account (free). 2) Set port forwarding on your router. I wouldn't bother with L7 stateful packet inspection, if that's where you're going, as it's solely HTTP traffic. Forwarding incoming port 80 should...

Its a cool idea, but to sell anything (even at-cost like a by buy), we'd have to remove ourselves from HBT or buy a sponsor membership. Off the shelf parts are the way to go when not trying to make a buck, like us.

Schweet!