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Everything worked out pretty good actually. I'm still looking for a better way to secure my burners to the frame as well as finding a better way to support my hot liqueur tank so that the supports don't overheat while the burner is on. Other than that, everything actually worked well. I...

Yup, thats what I've been learning. Thanks Brewguyver!

Ok, nevermind. After more research, I found a thread that mentioned to check out this video . It answered my questions completely, in case anyone else has the same questions.

Hey guys. I've recently been building a rims system, and I'm almost finished. The last piece of the puzzle to install is the propane system. Now, I don't have a whole lot of experience with these, and I want to make sure I set it up right. The burners I purchased were from...

Quick update. Everything I've ordered has come in and I've finished wiring the control station. Drilling the aluminum with a battery powered drill is taking forever and then I still need to plumb and support all the piping. I can't wait to brew cause I've got a pumpkin ale and rye IPA ready...

Well there you go. I must not have used that chart right. Well good, that makes me feel quite better about my setup now too.

Well, you size wire by how many amps your system uses. Thicker wire= higher amps. You said you're using a 1500W element on a 120V system. Using the formula P=IV (Power=Current*Voltage) and solving for I (P/V=I), we get 1500W/120V=12.5A. If you have separate plugs for your pump, then just put...

Well, if you read from the first wiring diagram on page 2 to the bottom of page 3 in this thread, you'll see the progression of what I originally wanted to what I'm going with now, and suggestions as to why I may want to change them. You'll also notice some of the other factors you'll need to...

What do you mean exactly? Are you looking to have the ability to switch on/off each receptacle in the outlet? The way I plan to wire my system, I will have everything hooked up with a single plug to a single receptacle. If you are planning on having two plugs, you're total amperage on the...

Ok, so I've ordered everything that I'm going to need for this build and I'm waiting on the last 25% of the pieces to come in the mail. I just finished laying out the structure and I'm going to find an aluminum supply store. I'm attaching the model I built with sketchup so I could resolve...

Yea, I'm excited to get started. I'll try to document a lot of the build in case it works out well and others wish to follow. Thanks for all the feedback Paul, I really appreciate it!

Well, I decided I was going to go with all copper plumbing, and the closest to a 2000W heater I could find with a low watt density was a 1700W LWD heater. So using that, 1700/120=14.2A. Add in the pump, and I'm right at 16A. I think I should be safe where I'm at, but if I decide to upgrade in...

Ok, I think I got it now. According to the instruction manual, I think this is how the alarm needs to be wired. If you set the controller value C=1, then AL1 is activated when Deviation high alarm occurs. Set D=0, and then AL2 is activated when Deviation low alarm occurs. Deviation from the...

Ok, slight modification. Now, when the element is AVAILABLE, not just on, the light will turn on. Kind of like all systems ready. I think I'm going to see what Aubers has to say about setting up their alarms to do what I want to do (again, set light/alarm 1 to go off when heating is required...

Ok, heres what I had in mind. When I turn on the switch to the pump, pump light goes on. This should work with the current setup. When I turn the element on (whether the PID is calling for heat or not) the element light comes on to show it's available. This is slightly off since it's not...

I'm with you now. Where did you purchase your switches and lights? I like how you set them up so you can easily see when they are on and off. I'm also a pretty big fan of the ammo box to contain everything. I've already bought one on ebay. Another question, do you know much about the alarm...

Ok, so I thought about it more last night, and I thought that the dpst switch would probably have to be between the relay and element, not the relay and the PID. I also cleaned up the layout to be closer to how it will be installed.

Also, if I'm going to include room for larger future capacity, how many amps should I prepare for? 25A allows me to use 10 gauge wire, while 40 amps will require 8 gauge wire. This will also affect the size (and consequently the price) of the dpst switch.

I'm guessing you meant to install the switch between them. If so, here is the updated electrical diagram. What do you think?

By switch, do you mean to install a switch between the PID and SSR, or do you mean to swap?