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I should clarify that the sugar needs to be fully dissolved.

You got it. You could scale that down to what you would need for a sample. 2 oz./pint Best to weigh the water too unless you have a very accurate way of measuring liquids.

Sucrose (cane sugar) contributes 46 points per pound in a gallon of water. A little math and you'll have your answer.The calibration temperature for your hydrometer should be included in the documentation that came packaged with it. Most I have seen are either 60 or 68 degrees F.

When batch sparging it doesn't take much to figure out the proper sparge volume. Since the grist is already saturated it won't absorb any more water. Just subtract the volume of the first runnings and dead space from the pre-boil volume.

Wilser. It's well worth the price difference.

When you live in an area that mines soft metals and a neurologist orders them. Went in for a blood draw and they drew 16 tubes.

My beers have greatly improves since I went back to using dry yeasts. Not sure that will help me live longer, but I do like the results :) Top O' the evenin' to ya as well!

Really? Can you elaborate on that?

Lead? My generation, as toddlers, played with wooden blocks made in several Asian countries. The paint on most was lead based. We also chewed on them as we did on most of our toys, likely colored with lead based paint as well. At 70, I'm not dead from lead poisoning yet and all of the soft...

I think BIAB with full volume mashing disproves that theory. If a thinner mash indeed produced a more fermentable wort, most all of the beers brewed using this process would be very dry, which is not the case. The body of a beer is primarily determined by the grain bill, mash temperature and...

Yep. You got the point!

I agree with you 100%, but that doesn't detract from the validity of my statement.

I think many people use the details to try and lay the blame for their $hit beer somewhere other than on themselves.

I agree with waiting longer and needing to be sure gravity has stabilized before bottling. One of the great things about kegging is no bottle bombs. This, coupled with lots of experience, allows many of us to visually gauge when a beer is finished fermenting and ready to package.

That would be a week from now. Leave the krausen alone it's above the beer and won't affect it.

Not odd at all for active fermentation to be finished in 3 days. Let it sit for a weel or so and then do a gravity check. Do another gravity check in a couple more days. If it's the same and reasonably close to expectation, it's ready to bottle. Don't put much weight in what it tastes like...

You got it. At that temperature the enzymes would be denatured quickly and have little active time to convert starches to sugars.

Pretty standard mineral additions for bottled drinking water are Calcium Chloride and Sodium Bicarbonate.

Hard Cider on one tap and beer on the other 2. I have done root beer in thepast as well.

Sounds like just a slow leak. If you have a manifold with the red handled valves, they like to leak around the stem when turned on. May leak when off too, but usually just on. Use a spray bottle with some Starsan solution or soapy water while you open and close the valves. Spray all of the hose...