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Actually, no...you want to leave it attached. Don't allow beer to flow downhill into the reg, but it's important the gas is attached because as you shake more CO2 will enter solution due to the increased surface area. Without the pressure on the beer, you'll be doing harm or nothing at all in...

7837 per year.

Betcha a nickel it's fine. Rack to secondary. Let it sit there for a couple weeks and then bottle.

Not sure of your question, but one day probably wasn't enough to condition your beer. It will continue to absorb CO2 (condition) until the gas saturation reaches equilibrium with the CO2 pressure. Usually, setting your CO2 pressure to 12 pounds or so and waiting a week or so will condition your...

Then you didn't read Papazian's book. He definitely mentions it. Yeast need oxygen to survive is the short answer. If you had vigorous ferments, then you probably did aeratre to some extent. More probably would have been better, allowing for healthier yeast and fermentation. The list of stupid...

Lighter and less hops. But a better solution would be to just brew more. You'll never make the best beer by rushing it. Cheers :D

Yeah but using this logic, prehoppd LME is the best. Dried yeast is the best. And adding sugar is a good idea. DME is better. It tastes better.

You're planning on bottling this after 3 weeks?? I'd definitely do a couple months in the secondary minimum for a beer that big.

What homebrewer_99 said. Real good advice. Especially note that LME continually darkens in the can. There's nothing you can do to stop it. Extract beers are hard enough to make light colored, and LME doesn't help any.

Expensive but looks nice: http://www.kegs.com/fermenters.html

I use demijohns...it's about 14 gallons. They're nice but just as hard to clean as carboys. And they are more fragile than carboys. You could go back to plastic, too. We used to use a big food grade trash can size bucket.

Hey that is really really cool. Thanks for the link! :D

Why not use Iodophor? Just saying...

You will get alzheimers if you use an aluminium brew kettle even once. In fact, just posting this thread might push you over the edge. ;)

Here's a good link on chocolate. Long and short of it is, I don't know what white chocloate would add...it's fats that probably don't dissolve and could go rancid. To get real chocolate character, you want cocoa...not cocoa butter, Cheers :D http://ask.yahoo.com/20030106.html

My advice: Definitely don't use white chocolate. It's not even cocoa. White chocolate is made of cocoa butter and sugar. If you use chocolate at all, I'd get a high quality dark, unsweetened chocolate powder like Scharffenberger or Ghiradeli. People who know chocolate don't even really consider...

What he said...the theory is sound, but the methods are suspect. You'll find a lot of that in those old books...don't bother boiling...add a ton of sucrose...I wonder if they ever tried their methods or if they were just tolerant of a lower quality beer than homebrewers tend to make today? ;)

Definitely possible. I've done it lots of times. But mostly back before such a variety of yeast was available. It's worth the effort if it's a unique yeast strain...something you can't already buy from White Labs. If you can buy it, then IMHO, it's best to leave yeast farming to the pros. As...

I'd skip the chocolate personally. Stout malts already have a lot of the characteristics of unsweetened chocolate and I think it'll be lost. It's generally better to keep beers simple...something newer brewers inevitably have trouble accepting ;) I'd use all that cherry juice at least. Why not...

BeeGee - right on...doesn't make sense to me, because it seems that you could do a quick sparge with continuous by stirring it all up and running it through quickly. That intuitively makes sense, but experience tells me that to get the best results, you need to go slow and not agitate the grain...