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I don't think this plan was destined for success from the beginning. The reason bottles stay carbonated is because there's no where for the CO2 to go as the yeast produces it (because it's capped and there's barely any head space), so it infuses in the beer (and the colder the temperature, the...

Here's roughly what I paid for my current setup, your mileage my vary with local deals: $150 for 7.2 cu craigslst fridge $75 for craigslist dual-regulator setup (allows you to pressurize @ 2 different serving pressures) $250 for 4 perlick combo faucets/shanks $20 for craigslist CO2 tank $30/each...

Look at the sticky, it has a really good visual for force carbing at a high PSI for the first 24-36 hours. The key is to release the pressure and reset the serving pressure in that window, otherwise it will far overshoot your desired carb level...

I found a deal on someone's old AG equipment (2 10G coolers fully converted with valve/false bottom and fly sparge). I am planning on using this to transition into AG brewing. However, after reading some stuff here, maybe people recommend BIAB and batch sparge because they're easier and...

Absolutely - I had a sump pump already on hand so there was no additional cost

Here's a tip for improved performance out of your immersion chiller. Get a bucket full of ice water and a sump pump ($30-40), and instead of attaching the immersion chiller to your hose, attach it to the sump pump. Then put the chiller's output back into the bucket, creating a closed loop. In...

Let's say I go with option 1, that goes back to my initial question about the best way to gradually cool the yeast. Am I trying to avoid shocking the yeast into hibernation? If I do 5* every few hours down to 50* is that acceptable?

Well I suppose there are two options for me at this point: 1) Let the yeast ride out 12 hours through the morning, and then drop the temperature slowly as per instructions (based on what you're telling me, the yeast population should rise to appropriate levels in the warmer wort). 2) Drop the...

Well my homebrew store is closed for the day and I've already pitched. I can go by the store tomorrow and grab another smack pack and pitch it tomorrow, in the meantime I can set my fermenting chamber to 50 to slow down fermentation? edit: FWIW, the smack pack of yeast I got says to pitch at...

I have been using a fermentation chamber since I started brewing, because it's just too damn hot in Texas. So I figure a lager, while a bit more work, shouldn't be a huge deal. I have setup the fermentation chamber at 70*F, and it says that once it starts to ferment (I will be checking in 24...

Can you provide details on your recipe?

Silly question but do you just develop the "taste" for carbonation levels as you get more experienced? I know that if you set it and forget it, the beer will eventually get there. But after a 1 week taste test, I imagine it's mostly experience with the flavors?

Just curious what my expectations should be on a stout/porter pour without a stout/creamer faucet? I have the reg set low according to the chart, and so now I'm having trouble determining if the carbonation is right or not, because I would normally judge it by the head size. The carbonation...

I got this same combo and I'm happy with it.

I have been using a 10G pot with an outdoor burner for my extract recipes, so I should be OK doing 5G batches of AG right? I just may get a rubbermaid cooler, I've heard those are good for the mashing step.

Other than How to Brew, any recommendations for books to read to learn more about the process? I enjoy reading up on the topics before getting started. Not sure if HTB has a section on BIAB, or just AG in general. I'll have to scan through it again.

I have a 40Q brew bot, should be sufficient for 5 gallon batches I hope?

My very first recipe was a 1G BIAB that I got as a gift. It wasn't too bad at all. After that, I did 5G extract recipes. Is there any value in moving to partial first? Since you're mashing both ways, is there anything "easier" about partial?

I used "extreme" mounting tape and that stuff seems to be holding on great. Yankee, beautiful wood choice. You going to put a bottle cap catch under the opener?

As I worked through my keezer build, I found myself questioning whether my insulation was good enough, if my keezer was cycling too often, etc. I'm sure you saw my plentiful threads on the subject I thought it might be beneficial for others to have a thread compiling information of people's...