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More like 0.14, but everyone's system will be a bit different.

The only aftertaste I get is biscuit.. Though I recall some folks thinking that biscuit tastes metallic.. so that could be it.

"Troob", actually.

http://stores.ebay.com/The-Organic-Vanilla-Bean-Company_Bourbon-Vanilla-Beans-6-7_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ5QQftidZ2QQtZkm For the linky..

Those prices Beans are outrageous. A half pound of those same beans on eBay is 20+ship from a reputable seller (that many of my brewing pals have used).. 50 bucks in nuts!

It's interesting, between this forum and the other I frequent nobody has had a case of Autolysis with their beers sitting on yeast cakes for weeks. You can read about Autolysis here... http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter10-3.html but the gist of it is.. the yeast cells rupture over...

Temperature swings, for the most part don't sour beer (Unless the beer is in extreme heat for long periods of time). What sours/skunks beer is UV light. Since it's in a sealed keg.. you've got no worries there.

I've yet to encounter a Dry county down here in Austin. I know they exist.. and I don't pay 18 bucks for a 12 pack of anything. Then again I've paid 10 bucks for a 6 pack of some very nice micro brew.. so maybe I have.

Interesting. Are these new stock or a long filled backorder? Last I heard they were still having production problems.

How were you gauging the temperature of the fermentation? Was it with a probe thermometer in the wort/beer itself, or a stickon 'fermometer'? Just curious really. I've been using a 'swamp bucket' method. A big bucket with 4 inches of water and frozen 2 liter water bottles in it. Tshirt over...

Full rolling boil vs full volume boil? Does this not make sense to anyone? A "full boil" as the topic states is just that, full volume of the beer to be brewed. Which in turn needs to be boiled with a 'rolling boil'. So either way, he has to do a 'full rolling boil' with his 'full boil...

You can get promash from a vendor on ebay for 21 shipped I think it is. A couple bucks difference then beersmith. I liked beersmiths layout better.. but promash seemed a little more functional.

Yeah checkvalves that are inline are hard to find. Most DO require to be screwed into a manifold.

The best bet would be a manifold that's good for 4 kegs with checkvalves on each of the connections/valves.. Splitting the CO2 line will work (albeit messier IMHO). Maybe more possible for leaks too? Rather than CO2->Mani->Valves->Kegs.. you got CO2->splitters->kegs.. Eh

No, summarize. I don't feel like going through 3 pages of thread.

B&T - Guinness & Bass H&H - Guinness & Harp or vice-versa depending on who you talk to.

I'm quite curious in them as well. Not the racking port version, because the bottle is more expensive and then the racking mechanism adds even more. I think they came out to 45/bottle that way. Rather than 23 or so just for a plain non ported bottle. My biggest concern would be o2 permeability.

Common knowledge, no joke.

Kevin, Yep. It would be ideal to brew a batch that uses the same yeast, or a similar variety. Extract or all grain makes no difference. Just make sure the wort you are racking on top of the yeast is below 90*F.

6.5gal fermenter. It's good stuff, no blowoff this time around (never had one, actually). Got plenty of headspace in that pup!