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Its the height of the ring on the neck of the bottle where your wing capper grabs it. Some are higher on the bottle and wont allow some cappers to crimp the cap fully. I had this problem before switching to a bench capper with those type bottles. If you don't feel as if your caps are sealed...

I was going to suggest the simplest solution for you to make a filter braid with little to no tools and ~ $10 cost. You just buy a $5 stainless toilet hose from your hardware store, cut off the ends(I bet a hardware store would do this for you if you asked) and slip the braid off. Hammer it...

Does your cooler have a drain hole/plug?

"New Brewing Lager Beer" by Greg Noonan. A good read and great technical info if you're into making lagers

How are you mashing and sparging? Your wort should come out fairly clear after vorlaufing and filtering thru the grainbed. Looks like stirred up mash went into the fermenter to me.

I've been using store-bought RO water for brewing for awhile but am getting ready to install a couple 20" filter housings with KDF filters in // to reduce hydrogen sulfide odor from my well. These: http://www.waterfilters.net/WaterFiltersNET-KDF85-20BB-WF-Water-Filter.html# The well also...

Is that correct? That's .08 gram per 5 gallons. That is a tiny amount.

How much do you use? I have some of this from Puritan's pride but wasn't sure on the dosage.

Do you have any rust stains in your sinks, tubs, or toilets? Iron can be a batch destroyer.

For the life of me, I can't understand people's avoidance of using campden. I see all kinds of bad info on this site about how to get rid of chlorine/chloramine when it can be eliminated with a 1/4 tab per 5 gals of water. I use it in every batch. I just went and looked at the price tag on my...

Condolenses. I see. That sucks. That's why I don't do experimenting too often.

I'd drop the baking soda completely--it's used to raise mash pH(which you don't need) and is not needed in the sparge at all. Drop the epsom salt--malt has plenty of Mg for a healthy fermentation and you don't need any more sulfate than the gypsum will give you Then add 4g of gypsum and 6g...

Holding that button down is as simple as putting a zip tie on it. Some take them apart and solder a wire around them.

Some good advice on here. Nice to see something other than "wait longer" I routinely pitch after an overnight chilling during summer when my wort chiller stops at ~80F. If your sanitization is good, you will have no issues.

Burger King did it with 12 hops with good results. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/twelve-hopostles-154488/index4.html I don't see how it could go wrong with proper brewing techniques, sanitation and temp control.

Other than the fact that 5.2 stabilizer doesn't work, it adds too much sodium to your beer. I found Kai Troester's ward labs analysis of a water sample dosed with it at less than what was recommended. It added 64 ppm of Na. At the recommended rate, it adds 100ppm of sodium. That's a potential...

Name your favorite beer and we can point you to something similar.

That's just the pot for $35. Here's a complete burner/pot for $38 http://www.sears.com/masterbuilt-30-qt-turkey-fryer-with-timer/p-07113263000P?sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL

You should make a starter for all liquid yeasts with 5 gal batches. Pitching a pack without without one will give a cell count which is less than ideal. Here's a good free yeast starter calculator to play with. http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

I've seen brewers ask about mimicing MO with American 2-row and biscuit for years. I think about 10% is what I usually see recommended though. I'd love to see the results.