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Man...that's the bee's knees right there.

You're right on track. This is the process I'll be using, albeit a bit smaller. A couple things...the 5500w elements will pull 30A each. If you want to run 2, you're gonna need 60A total. Rather than a single high amp line, it's easier to control 2 smaller ones. Be sure you're wiring is 10AWG...

Can't speak to a Sanke in particular, but I had a bottom drain on a flat bottom kettle and it was really nice. Watch out for clogs though...maybe put a domed screen over it....hops WILL go right down there.

Aaaaaaannnnndddddd they're sold out.

Get to brewing! I think you'll find the Banjo is overkill....keep it on low because they can waste a lot of fuel and the heat will just go right up the sides, melting your valves. THIS will really help...a bit pricey, but probably necessary with the Banjo considering its width.

Yeah, it's scary. That's why fermcap gets my vote for the best $5 you'll ever spend in homebrewing.

Yeah, I agree. I was pretty shocked to see how big it actually is...I expected it to be half that size. I figured what the heck and bid on it. I may put a backlight inside and use it as a sightglass...but I just scored THIS so we'll see. I've had lots of triclover stuff on a system in the past...

A hearty thank you on all accounts ;) Ask yourself whether triclovers or camlocks are needed in our systems....? Sure..I've thought about fill volume and temp loss...but I threw out a random bid and won. I LOVE real industrial stuff...no contest vs. hobby stuff. This may serve as a sight...

Awesome Ebay score...99 cents plus 35 shipping....haven't checked the flow meter capabilities..but it makes an awesome sight glass....

Plastic leaches nasty chemicals and bad flavors. Run really hot water through a vinyl hose and drink it after it cools.... you'll understand why it should be avoided.

Square steel tube is around $5 a foot...so $18 isn't too bad. As has been said...they make their money on the fittings...much more expensive lb for lb.

That's probably brazed. If it really bothers you, melt it away and install a hose clamp.

Nevermind the gussets. While being very useful structurally, you're essentially in the same place as when using mitre joints. Get some angle iron and cut it into pieces that are as long as your square tube is wide. Then tack that section angle into the 90's under the table. Make sense? Sort of a...

Nope! But I get that a lot ;)

The strengths of the plate and counterflow chillers are that they bring a small amount of wort near the coolant. It's a 1:1 exchange....very efficient. They can also be bolted into place as an integral part of the system. But they can be fussy, and I don't care what anyone says, they take more...

I think the calculations should be focused on surface area, not volume. If the screen clogs, the volume of wort trapped inside is a moot point (except for the money you spent on the hops!). I think the 400 is the way to go...no matter the size of the filter.

I'll add number 8....it's not made of plastic, nylon, etc. Way too many homebrewers are bringing their high temp wort into contact with plastics...whether it's vinyl tubing, a cooler mashtun, etc. I am really trying to get away from that because of off flavors and carcinogens.

I know that some highly regarded breweries (Stone for example) throw their hops right in the boil and also do a lot of whirlpool hopping. I'm gonna say it right now: The BEST way to get the BEST hop utilization during the boil is to free float your hops! Whirlpooling is a very valuable process...

Man...I do this a lot....inventing things that have already been invented. If only I had a time machine......

Each type of chiller has its pros and cons. Its like rock-paper-scissors... I've personally owned and operated all three types. What I CAN say from personal experience is that: 1. The 50' 1/2" IC kicked ass...10 gals to pitching in <10 mins and there was never a concern about clogging. 2. The...