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This is from a 2017 BYO magazine. Not sure what you'd call it and if it's been post before. Either way, I'm interested in this setup over using a balloon or an IV bag. But I'd rather use a more substantial vessel with a metal top or something I can rely on the seal. Thoughts?

I had an electrician run new Romex for my dryer outlet from across the house with material for about the same price it would have cost me to just buy the Romex at the Home Despot.

Ahh yes, strain relief. Didn't catch that. Definitely won't work then. Compared to my panel wiring lol. the element is H H G, no 4th wire

This is what I'm thinking of using for the element

That's what I have

Post a pic of your plug element. I'd like to see what you mean.

I'll post a pic of the cord when I get home. Basic 3 wire dryer cord. I have an element but it's not corded. It was from Bobby. One end of whatever wire I use will have a plug to plug into my panel. The other end will wire directly to the element. And the element is on a triclamp and it's...

Im deep into this build now, getting the last few things together. Any reason I can't use a 3-wire dryer cord to run power from my panel to the 5500w heating element? It's 10 AWG wire. Just would have to cut the plug off and hard wire into the panel and the element. I have an extra cord from my...

Lol, they're still the best!

That is what I did but it tripped as soon as it was plugged in. The electrician was frustrated because everything was wired right, until we googled it, and Speed Queens have a design flaw. Something about the motor mounts shorting or something. They make an isolation kit that fixes it but it's...

Fun fact I found out today while installing a new 4 prong 30 amp outlet for my dryer and brewery: Speed Queen dryers do not play nice with GFCI breakers. Trips it instantly. Something about motor mounting. So I have a new circuit but could not use a GFCI breaker in the panel. Have to get a spa...

Ahh but an induction cooktop doesn't require much cleaning if any at all 😜 The tight spaces and gaps between the rods is what has me not wanting to clean trub residue off of one

Indeed that sounds logical. I looked it up and there is a fuse inside the cooktop and it sounds like they blow often. So it is protected on its own but as you said, if it pulls more amps it's already cooked (zing!) itself. Someone else swapped the internal fuse for a breaker inside the cooktop...

Good question and seems logical to my non electrician brain. Put a breaker inline before the 6-20 outlet in the panel... I have my electrician coming Thursday to update my dryer outlet to 4 prong, I'll ask him and see what he thinks. He'll go by code no doubt.

The induction is attractive to me because I won't have to clean an element inside the BK. Too me that just sounds awful lol And I don't have to run the induction through the panel, just wanted to for a cleaner system look. I could easily just plug it into a separate 20 amp outlet. More wires...

Yes, the risk of burning up the induction cooktop is there. And is in my thought process as I design my system. I thought I read it has an internal fuse for protection but I can't recall. I'll have to double check to be sure/safe

I am thinking in my design, I would rather have the MT EZBoil PID firing the HLT element when mashing and having some sort of switch over to the HLT PID firing the element when heating the strike water and sparge water. I'd rather have the mash temp dictating firing the element/HERMS water when...

I ended up looking at the bigger panel you mentioned and it actually might be the route I go. Has what I need with an extra PID for the boil, which I suppose I can just leave out or keep for future changes, say if my induction craps out or I end up wanting to change to an in-kettle heating...

Good, thanks. I appreciate the info

I guess in my scenario, it would be the bigger box that you have, except maybe I could swap outlets for the BK side. Does the PID (any kind) have a "hand" option? Essentially it's just on and doesn't fire the element it's hooked to on and off as needed? Or wire it to the contactor without the...