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Well, there are a lot of beers that don't hold up to aging so in that regard it might not be the best idea. In the sense that you are asking, no it won't do anything to spoil the beer. Just do exactly as you say and unhook the keg, leaving the keg pressurized.

Yes, that's called a swamp cooler. You can usually get the water to sit about 10 degrees lower than ambient air temperature without ice. I use ice. I check the temperature 3 times a day and add ice as necessary to keep the temperature where I want it.

your LBHS should have it. If all else fails, Northern Brewer has it http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/3-8-clear-hi-temp-tubing.html

Friction is plenty strong enough to hold the hose on at those pressures. If you're worried you could try using some hose clamps but IMO it's not worth it - plus they might be too bulky to fit in the bottle. And yeah, I'm sure the ultra purist would scoff at plastic but the important part...

Well, they're definitely allowed to condition - that's the secondary fermentation bit. It really depends on the style though, how long the beer is allowed to condition. There's not a strict rule by any means. An authentic english mild with a low carbonation is going to require a lot less...

Plain old bottled homebrew IS real ale Straight from the mouth of CAMRA (which has a far more anal definition of real ale than I think any reasonable person should) also

This. Just ferment in a 5 gallon bucket and follow the advice of countless members of this forum and don't use a secondary. Your beer will turn out great!

Do NOT add the same amount of priming sugar as you would when bottling. There's a big difference in the amount of head space and you can very easily end up with an overcarbed or a sickly sweet beer that way. The general rule of thumb is to use approximately 1/2 as much priming sugar. You might...

I just built my own version of this: (that's forum member beardedsquash, btw) I made a couple of modifications. One, I used polyethelne tubing instead of regular vinyl. This gave me a little more rigidity and allowed me to heat the spout and bend it downwards so it stays pointing where I...

That is another option. If you have the time (you're basically making two starters, so it takes twice as long) I'd do that to keep your costs down.

First of all, wyeast packs are 100 billion and white labs vials range from 70-140 billion so averaging about 100 billion (with some rounding) That means you're looking at 3.6 doublings if you use one pack. However, using Mr. Malty's calculator (http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html) it looks...

haha, I just saw this thread about FBs and was going to offer the same advice!

Yeah sometimes commercial hefe kegs will come with instructions to store upside down so that when they're flipped over to kook them up, the yeast is put back in suspension. A simple shake will do the job too though...

I didn't like the idea of having to drill another hole out of the fridge or having another plug to have to deal with, so I got a 110v muffin fan from Radio Shack and mounted it in a project box. The fan is hooked up to the power supply for the fridge light (no real use for that anymore anyway)...

No trick really. As long as it's properly fitted into the tank the grain will hold it down and do all the work for you. If you're getting a gap around the edges, just take some high temp tubing, cut it open along one side to make a gasket, and fit it around the FB - should seal up nice and...

A lot of fridges have coils in the sides and top now. Just feel your fridge after it's been running. Any area that feels warm = no drilling.

If your mash tun only has a braided SS filter you're going to need a false bottom to really take advantage of a sparge arm and do fly sparges...

Budweiser 'ages' on processed beechwood that can impart little to no flavor just so that the bottom fermenting lager yeast has plenty of surface area to settle on and still ferment. Budweiser's beechwood aging is an entirely different animal than aging on oak or any other flavorful hardwood.

What you're describing is different than what the OP is suggesting. Ice stabilization is a process to clear up haziness, especially chill haze, by freezing and removing a small amount (about 5%) of the beer. The theory is that as proteins and other haze causers drop out of suspension they...

Oh, gotcha. Yeah, I don't think that's a concern as far as diacetyl is concerned. Whatever diacetyl is going to be in your beer has long since been formed by that stage.