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There's no way a 44 qt (11 gallon) kettle will be able to hold enough water for a 10 gallon BIAB batch. You'll want a minimum of a 15 gallon kettle for 10 gallon batches, and that's without BIAB.

In the interest of science I'd only make one change at a time, but I'd probably at least try the following: -Lower your mash temp. You said it yourself, the incomplete conversion leaves more sugars in the final beer but they tend to be longer sugars that add to the body of the beer but not the...

Definitely going to agree with daksin. Cold conditioning is specifically a process for ales, as when you do it with a lager it's called lagering. It's not about the yeast doing anything - you should be giving them enough time to do their job before you condition - now it's about getting the...

Well, after I yelled some explicatives in reaction to my foot being burned, she came running and then just sort of stood there, stunned by what she was seeing. Took her a few seconds and me yelling 'towels! towels!' for her to snap into action. After that, she was amazing.

Not really sure where to put this, so apologies if this is out of place. This weekend I was brewing a Dry Irish Stout. This detail is only important because, as you know, stouts are dark. It was an extract batch with steeping grains. Everything was going well. I pulled out the grains, put them...

Just speaking about Wyeast strains, 55° is in the appropriate temperature range for 1007 German Ale (55°-68°) and 1728 Scottish Ale (55°-75°) 2565 Kolsch (56°-70°) also works pretty close to that temp. Then their entire lager line - with the exception of 2112 California Lager (58°-68°) work well...

It's really hard to give a definite 'this is the right amount of time' answer. The best way to tell is to get yourself a stainless steel nail, drill a whole the size of the nail, and plug it with the nail. You can pull the nail to draw a sample whenever you please and as soon as you're happy -...

Rule of thumb is to put whatever adjuncts you want into your secondary and rack on top of them. This minimizes splashing which in turn minimizes oxidation.

This is the perfect post for me. Exactly what I needed to build exactly what I want exactly when I was putting project together! I'm not very familiar with this sort of electronics, so this is a really big help! Thank you very, very much for putting this together!!

The only thing that jumps out to me is for really authentic real ale, which is sometimes carbonated this way...

Exactly! It only takes a little bit of agitation to get the yeast back into suspension.

Absolutely. Standard practice for kegged hefs.

I don't think an overly vigorous boil is really desirable anyway. I'd do what I could to bring the pre-boil volume down - increase your grain bill, add extract, etc. and/or increase your boil time. Just add the extra time to the beginning of your hop schedule and add them as you would have...

Krausening is used to bottle condition lagers. Since yeast will go dormant or even die during a long lagering period, it can be difficult to naturally carbonate them without re-pitching yeast. The idea with krausening is to use a small portion of actively fermenting beer (you're supposed to use...

My local brewpub just got these in. They're pretty nice, but it can be difficult to swivel the swing top so that it's out of the way. I like mine though and have gotten compliments when I've taken it places.

Looks nice! I never would have thought to use a mailbox... Very clever!

True that's the primary factor, however if you have conditions that would result in tannins being leached the problem will be a lot worse if your husks are shredded. More surface area = more extraction...

The 'look' of your crush is basically a quick way to judge how well your grain bed will drain and how easily you'll extract tannins from the husks. No shredding = better drainage and lower risk of tannins. Lots of shredding = poor drainage and higher risk of tannins. If you can mill your grain...

For those of you not familiar with malt conditioning (like I was, until moments ago): The wiki goes on to recommend skipping this as a beginner, but if I get a corona mill I think I'll start doing this right away...

Sure it can! I would add it at secondary to ensure that your beer yeasts aren't going to go crazy on residual sugars in the mead and overcarb your bottles. Then just bottle like normal. I think you'd be fine with the campden, too. Conditioning might just take longer.