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Debatable... However, the point still stands - you're going to get different contributions by adding hops at different times. an interesting experiment would be to make an IPA 3 ways: 60-15-0 60-15 60-0 Should give you a good example of what you get with everything together, and then...

Ah, sorry. I've looked up several water reports for various municipalities I've lived in and they've always contained the mineral concentrations that are useful for brewing - so I assumed this one would to. I guess I should have checked! Now that I'm looking in more detail, it doesn't look like...

Normally I'd just recomment that you contact city hall - they'll either be able to help you find it on their website or send you one. However, since I'm feeling generous... http://charmeck.org/city/charlotte/Utilities/PublicationsandEducation/Documents/2012%20Full%20Water%20Quality%20Report.pdf

Without knowing exactly what you're reading, it's hard to say why you might be hearing that. If I had to guess, though, I'd say that you're hearing that straight distilled water is not what you want to use - which is absolutely true! Modified distilled water is fine, though. You're adding all...

It's specifically certain hop extracts/oils (tetra-hydro isomerized hop extract) that commercial brewers use that do not contain the molecules responsible for the skunking action. While it might be true that some hops are more prone to skunking, or throw off more skunky flavors/aromas, all...

Nah, I don't think they're skunked (they're almost certainly not supposed to be, anyway). I'd put it down to some combination of a retention of some of the sulfer-y compounds a lot of lager yeasts throw off, as well as possibly some low levels of DMS. That's a guess, but during the skunking...

I've heard of conditioning... I'll try that out next time. That's what I'm looking for, though. Thank you!!

Awesome, thanks. That was what I was wondering. On my first attempt I was basically producing all flour so I dialed it back a bit and got this. Sounds like I want to hit somewhere in the middle. I'll keep working at it!

Hey guys! I purchased a corona style mill this weekend so I can begin crushing my own grain. I crushed a bit for some test batches this weekend, and was hoping you guys could offer some feedback on the quality of my crush. Based on what I've read I was pretty happy with this, but second...

If you're happy with your ale fermenting space and you just want to make the very occasional lager you could try a heating belt/jacket on a fermenter in your serving freezer. It's going to waste a lot of electricity since the fridge will constantly be cooling your beer and the belt will...

Brilliant explanation. Thank you for posting! I recently ordered one of these pumps (waiting for it to be shipped) and have started combing through my junk boxes for unused chargers. I was trying to match the spec exactly and haven't had any luck but hopefully with this newly gained knowledge...

A filter cannot remove chloramines, but campden tablets do AFAIK Therefore, using a filter and campden in conjunction is good practice. PH stabilizers are generally bunk. They don't do anything and/or make your beer salty.

Sorry I've been away from my computer for a while. Heating water went from about a 45 min job to about a 30-35 min job. It also reduced reheat time (after adding extract) by about 5-10 mins. If I have time I'll do a 'dry' run with water this weekend and give you something more concrete.

Probably the lowest tech solution is just to insulate your kettle. I take a bath towel and fold it such that it covers about 90% of the kettle - so that the bottom is exposed to mitigate the chance of an accidental fire - and then hold it in place with a bungee cord. Works like a charm...

No doubt, just saying that all of the OP's concerns about things commercial brewers do, homebrewers can do too.

Basically, brew a barley wine. There are quite a few strains from Wyeast that can tolerate high ABVs (up to 12%) such as 1728, 1084, 1762. Even 1065 can tolerate up to 11%. If you do a 2/1 dilution with water to beer of a 12% barley wine, you're looking at a nice, sessionable, 4% ABV. If you...

Mash rakes - stir your mash throughout. Glycol Systems - more than possible on a homebrew scale, but probably easier and more economical to just re-purpose a fridge or freezer as a temp control chamber PID Interfaces - check out the electric brewing forum... Fancy Pumps - pumps are pumps...

She looks beautiful! Glad to hear you've solved your problems!

You're assuming there's going to be a lot of nitrogen. There's not. The only way nitrogen makes it to the tap is if it's absorbed in the beer - and very little is absorbed by the beer. Whatever small amount is absorbed in the beer surely forms bubbles but the cascading effect is caused by the...

Yeah, the nitrogen may or may not (I suspect not) play some minuscule role in the head formed through a stout faucet, but for all intents and purposes it is there purely to provide extra pressure. For evidence, all we have to do is look at history. The modern stout faucet was created out of a...