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Thanks, I'll just go ahead with my build and give the idea a shot after I get it all working (which may be a good few months, so patience is a virtue.... that I have to participate in but dont like).

Yea, if the change in capacitance is very small it would be very hard to use this method.... but we can get a basic idea of what the change will be... What is the change in refractive index from 1.008 to 1.7 SG? Square that, and that is the change in permittivity, then multiply that times the...

lol, thermite, I LIKE IT! In posts from other threads I've read I believe that is what they were referring to, yes. The trick is getting the magnesium part to have a good connection to the SS keg or the steel part of the element. For your case I'm starting to think that coating it with...

lol, not possible, after I built one I would realize how bad an idea it was and go back in time to prevent my self from building it thus causing a paradox and making the building of any time machine impossible. And yes I know they sell them, but I want to give the input to the brew controller...

So I'm putting together plans to build an automated all grain system using 3 kegs I have. I'm building the keggle right now and will use it for a while before finishing the build, but I'm thinking ahead. I've seen that many people like to stop their sparge after gravity of the sparge wort hits...

hmm... this really has my mind jogging... You didnt use any teflon tape on the nut right (shouldnt make a difference, but good to know)? Are we also sure that it's rust and not some other residue left behind from your water? oh... is that the same SS nut? did the nut perhaps have rust on it...

Yes that will work, you'll just have to ignore one of the poles as you only need 1. To clarify, the DPTP has the same circuit for the relay I showed but 2 of it. So you'll just ignore half the contacts on the relay. I'm sure you'll figure it out from there. I.E.: notice the SPDT and...

I didnt see them either, so I emailed him and he said he can order them, but are a few dollars more than the SS ones, you just have to email him to get them from him, his name is Wayne.

The issue is that even with the resistor the negative half of the sin wave will pass through the circuit to the heater/cooler which ever one isnt on. Dependant on how they are built that could turn them on, or damage them. Most likely on the heater you'll end up running it at 1/2 power, minus...

looks good, let us know how it goes!

I dont think a diode would fix the problem. It's AC, so you'd only cut out 1/2 of the voltage wave. If you wired it that way, when the fan turned on the current would run back up the other line and try to power both your heating and cooling element from one 10a output from the controler. You...

Hmm, good to know. Well I could always do... BOTH! hahahaha... overkill but for 50 cents worth of flashing who cares. Though, in the aluminum FAQ they said that acidic doesnt bother aluminum unless it's very acidic, and wort is only slightly, though they did say that basic would be very bad, so...

I just had a thought... looking at the picture you most likely have a fine connection of the anode to the keggle (the head of the bolt most likely is compressed against the out side of the keggle), but if you put the rubber o-ring on the back side of the element, and centered it just right upon...

The way cathodic protection works by way of sacraficial anode, you need to have a GOOD connection between the anode and the electrical path to the cathode. Meaning that you need a fairly good connection between your metal brew pot and the sacrificial anode, as well as it being IN the water...

With an aluminum pot, given that you have a mild steel as the face plate of the element, the aluminum pot will act as the anode and will "pit" as the ions are replaced, but with a pot like that my guess would be that it would take 100 years for you to really wear your pot down (or longer), and...

What about preventing short cycling of the compressor? Edit: Uppon further reading the controller has a 1 - 10 minute delay you can set before turning the heat or cooling back on, thus preventing the short cycling. Pretty cool for 20 bucks.

Hi all, so I've been doing some reading about using eletric heating elements in SS kegs and ran into people talking about the mild steel face plate of the heating element rusting due to galvanic cathode reactions (like those in hot water heaters, go figure, lol). I saw that some people put...

lol, her name is Teela (like the character from He-Man), and her eyes caught the reflection from the flash... my friends are calling her "the gardian of the brew". The endings already have essentually swagelok connections (they are brass compression fittings instead of stainless though)...

I went with your idea of not having the input/ouput submerged at all, though this doesnt allow me to use a lid very well, it works. Excuse the horrible cut job that's not circular at the top of the keg... a sawzall was all I had.

I think I may have found an interesting solution... a little expensive, but not horribly so... Preassure washer quick connects... they are stainless steel and rated to 250 degF: http://www.pressurewasherstuff.com/products.php/HansonStainlessSteelPlugQC/cPath,33...