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Yea, but also remember that the resistance might be changing with voltage. If there is a dielectric in the element that is the insulator to ground and it melted away due to over heating during the scorching event it's possible that there is an air gap of some kind. A very small air gap at a volt...

Yea, I was very weirded out when I would get scorch smell and the GFCI poping, haha. So I measured and sure enough... I'm just regurgitating what I've been told about class A GFCI's here on the forums, so who knows what is right. I did measure what it takes to pop mine just out of curiosity...

Ebay, ebay is your friend. I got lucky actually. The particular bodine motor I got is custom made for 3M, but they were selling one surplus on ebay. I got it for 100 bucks. However I could not find the spec sheet on the model number given so I had to call bodine and found it was a custom motor...

Class A GFCI's are set to break at a current no greater than 3 mA. Class A is what is supposed to be used for house hold GFCI in bathrooms, etc. The GFCI I have is a class A but exceeds the requirement, I've measured its breakage current at 0.8 mA.

So both legs of the 240v element, when they are brand new, have a VERY large resistance to the metal part of the element that has the threads on it. Usually in a house because the hot water heater is tied into the copper house pipe and the copper house pipe is used for earth ground, the threaded...

I have had this exact same problem. It's definitely scorching, a nice burnt grain smell and then POP goes the element if you let it go long enough, and by pop I mean it blows my GFCI sense its resistance to ground got below 3 mega ohm (I measured it) which at 240v (what I run at) is enough to...

I started out on my MM3-1.5 with a bodine 1/6 hp 170 RPM 45 inch*lbs motor and found it worked great for dry grain. If I however conditioned my grain it would bind (this is at a mill gap of .035), so I geared it down to 89.5 RPM and 90 inch*lbs... still bound. I switched to a 1/4 hp 115 RPM...

Well, I brewed yesterday and took a mash conversion measurement, and YES the mash thickness appears to be effected, because the gravity of the mash went down in direct proportion. So with about 1 gallon of dead space with expected first wort gravity for 100% conversion would be 1.072...

So I've got a question about mash thickness and dead space, etc. So first let me explain that I have NO dead space in my mash tun when it drains, it's a bottom drain. However my false bottom is from sabco in a keg and so it sits high enough that about 1.5 gallons of water sit below it. Now...

Sorry I totally missed that you replied to this. I do a 10 minute dough in and then let it sit at mash temp for 15 minutes before I take the sample.

I dont see an issue with what you've said as long as the 120v outlet is GFCI covered. Note that running a 240v element at 120v is going to get you 1/4 the rated power of said element. Also, I used to think that all ements were the same, and recently had some flow issues with my RIMS tube...

Ok, reporting back. New grain mill motor is awesome, problem solved. Attempted to brew thursday night... kept scorching wort and blew 3 heatings elements... lesson learned DO NOT restrict the flow out of the RIMS tube, only on the input of the RIMS tube. Fixed this and brewed tonight with...

It will start out good for the first short amount of liquid until the ice starts to melt and then you'll have an issue as it will no longer be touching the ice (the ice is less dense than the water, so as it heats it will pull away from the IC). The coldest water you can get would work much...

Never had one in the carboy, however I cryo froze a set of yeast I grew from a conditioned bottle from a beer in france and it got infected with some form of brit, but I didnt know it until I tried to make a starter out of it. I had 8 10ml vials of the stuff, all infected, and every started grew...

Ran a test with just water... my grain mill is currently down so I cant test a brew.. the motor simply does not have enough torque and keeps seizing (it's 45 inch pounds but I geared it down to 1/2 RPM for 90 inch pounds, it's a 3 roller mill and my conditioned grain seems hard to crush, dry is...

Well, I just want to warn all of you to something MalFet told me earlier that he was correct on.... ALWAYS USE A PRESSURE COOKER. I attempted to grow some yeast out of a bottle of gavroche french red ale that I got and that worked out great. But I only used star san when putting the yeast...

Yea that thought crossed my mind. I can keep a higher flow rate if I use a larger false bottom as well, as the vacuum pressure would go down as the same amount is applied over a larger area... I think I'll try reducing the flow rate with a valve to under 1 gpm and see what happens that...

I'm starting to wounder if maybe I'm sparging too fast as well. At 1q/min I get done in about 25 minutes for sparge on a 5 gallon batch. I see a lot of people talking about 45 min sparge. Also, I recirc pretty fast during mashout and mash. I've noticed that the grain bed is fairly compacted...

Well first my crush looks perfect. It's exactly like the pictures on the wiki for malt conditioned grain that was crushed. The husk is very much intact, almost split down the middle but still one piece so you can see what is inside but didnt destroy the husk. I dont top off any water in the...

Went with a 3:1 dilution, added 2 grams of calcium chloride, added 2% acid malt, and hit 5.25 mash ph dead on, hurray! What's funny is that if I put that into the EZ water calculator and DONT include the acid malt that's what it predicted, but if I put the acid malt in, it predicts a mash ph...