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The M12 wires are just fine for where I have them running. All of my heat wash goes out the back, so no issues with the wiring on the front of the kettles. There is absolutely no heat on any of the lower wiring around the plumbing. I'm using hot surface igniters. The BCS directly controls...

Like you BrunDog, I am currently in search of a better BK screen solution. However, what I'm currently doing seems to be working fairly well. Back when I had Blichmann kettles, I had picked up two of their original kettle screens just before they switched to the hopblocker contraption. I was...

Post a pic of how it looks when you get a chance.

There are 24V ones, but then that means that I would need to have 12, 24 and 120V supplied on the system. 120V is a given because of the pumps & igniters, so using that for the solenoids was not issue. I could have used 120V ball valves also, but I would still need 12V available for other...

My last brew rig had a Therminator, but my new brew system is using a DudaDiesel B3-36A-40. Night and day difference. My ground water is very warm and I used to recircualte back into my BK for about 20 minutes before running into the fermenter at low 70's. Last Sunday I did my first brew day...

All the 120V valves are solenoid valves. Those are for natural gas (4) and fresh water (4). You never want to use solenoid valves for wort as they cannot be completely cleaned. The 12V valves are ball valves that are used for the liquid side of brewing. One thing to also note as a...

You need to insert some conditional code near the beginning of the tap list loop. This code needs to check if the tap # equals 1 and if so, write a keezer name description row. You can then repeat that if the tap # equals 5 and write the second keezer description row. Below is a real basic...

Not real clear on what you're asking for. You're not going to get a 2 column layout like mine in portrait (vertical) orientation - there just isn't enough width to show the info (which is why this is horizontal). If you were to use the original layout in vertical, you could do what you want...

LOL... it wasn't that bad. All tri clover fittings were from Brewers Hardware, tubing from McMaster Carr and a bunch of Swagelok fittings from ebay. If you're not in an immediate hurry and watch ebay for a while, you can really score some great deals on compression fittings from Swagelok...

Thanks! There are no power issues with 12V valves. I used them on my last rig and many others use them as well. I feel wiring is less bulky and simpler with 12V and I wanted to use the M12 style connectors for as much as I could. Additionally, I needed a 12V power supply in the panel for...

The snow is taller than your first tier.:(

Lots of ways to add more automation. Automated valves really helps simplify not needing hose changes when fly sparging. Float switches work good also. I'm in the process of adding some float switches to watch mash water level when fly sparging and to stop the sparge when my BK hits my...

You just drill out the tip of it where the gas comes out. You don't touch the outer threads used for mounting or where the gas line attaches. Standard NG orifice opening for these burners is 1/8", I don't remember what propane is, but somewhere in the area of 3/32". It's a fairly small...

Yes, cost! Electricity is very expensive in SoCal compared to natural gas. We have a 4 tier rate structure and my usage is already in tier 4 which means that every additional Kwh that I use is 30+ cents each. Also, I do 1/2 barrel batches, so it would take a lot of wattage to get 20+ gallon...

For anyone subscribed here, I've posted a new build thread for my all-new automated rig. It was built with the basic design of this system and then extended with more features (and is all SS). https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=572641

For anyone subscribed here, I've posted pics of my new brew rig that has the air injected burner in use. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=572641

Thanks man, really appreciate the props. Yeah, about 6 months getting it done. I had taken a bunch of pretty decent photos a month ago and was getting ready to post and then ended up changing up some plumbing and location of the plate chiller. Changing the plate chiller necessitated having a...

You will need a different orifice on the burner when you switch between natural gas and propane. NG needs a larger orifice, so if you are going to start on propane and then later move to NG, you can just drill it out to the proper size. Here's an example of the valve...

Air injection is currently only on the BK. On a big grain bill though, I can be heating 15G of strike water in the MLT and 15G of sparge water in the HLT and that is just taking too long. My old wok/jet burners kicked ass in that respect, but I like the silence of the BG14's. Not a huge deal...

Still to do: - Add air assist to MLT & HLT burners - Add tippy dump to MLT - Add level sensors to kettles