Search results

seems like you should keep it in the bottle longer

The various books and online advice is helpful, but often a new home brewer like myself gets discouraged when the reader is constantly told "make sure you do this" or "make sure you don't do this." This and the constant reference to potential off-flavors and infections give the impression that...

A this early stage of my brewing career, I like to KISS, so I'm just using 3 packets of Nottingham. It's pretty cheap anyway!

Yes, making a beer that big will be an interesting experiment. My basement is a pretty steady 68 degrees F. This is the extract recipe: 1.5 lbs crystal 40L (steeping) 15.3 lbs light LME 1 oz magnum (60) 1 oz chinook (60) 1 oz fuggles (10) OG: 1.141 IBU: 88 how does that look?

I've never rehydrated the yeast. How to Brew says to soak the yeast in 95-105 F water for 15 minutes, then add it to the wort. Should I wait until it cools down first?

ok, so let's say my OG is 1.141 :D Could I just use 3 packets of nottingham dry yeast (which comes out to 33 grams) when I first pitch? I'm afraid of doing this and then getting hit with a stuck fermentation later.

Ok. My LHBS didn't have any because of the recall, they said. Maybe the store owner was just lazy in reordering more.

I heard there was a recall for Nottingham yeast...but Midwest and Northern Brewer still sell it on their website. Should I be worried about buying it?

oops! I didn't even notice that. Thanks

If I were to use a dry yeast instead, would I have to have 2 packets?

So, Mr. Malty says, for a starter for a 1.120 OG beer, to use 2 vials of yeast with 2.24 liters of water, or 1 vial of yeast with 5.55 liters (!) of water. This seems like a lot. I don't have anywhere to make a 5.55 liter starter and I didn't think I'd have to buy two vials, but I know getting...

Man...here I thought that Draught and Extra Stout were the same thing. Now I find out they're different? :confused:

I've just poured the water from up high onto the wort when I'm topping it off after the boil. I just did this with a 1.072 IPA and it seems to work fine. I'm still not sure why people go through hoops and bounds to get the "perfect" aeration.

After you get the right amount of carbonation, couldn't you put the cider in the fridge until you feel like pasteurizing it?

Doesn't this contradict the information in the sticky about pasteurization? In that thread, Pappers specifically says to wait until SG is about 1.010 to 1.015 and then to add priming sugar and bottle, then wait until carbonation is right, and then pasteurize. Are you saying that is wrong?

:ban: OK, I'm not actually planning on doing this. But I'm curious if anyone has any idea whether this would work.

so even though it had only been 4 days since bottling, I had to open one and see. It was still flat (obviously), but it otherwise tasted great! I'm excited for how it will taste in another 2-3 weeks. In conclusion: a success. Thanks to all at this forum!

with all the bucket wrenches and wort aerators going on, you'd think the entire forum had contracted a bad case of noodlus armitis

So I got a Midwest recipe kit in the mail. I took the yeast out and stuck it in the refrigerator. Then, a week later, I found that they had put another yeast packet in the kit (apparently by mistake)...it was a Safale US-04 packet. I quickly put the yeast in the fridge, but can yeast survive...

The apple juice I bought was from whole foods and it was the opaque pulpy kind. Will the finished cider be only as clear as the original apple juice? (in my case, not clear at all)