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Use a large fermenter for those big-fruit melomels. 10-gallon size would be my suggestion. If you go small, antifoam drops may help, but you may still wine up with a big clean-up.

If you have some energizer (tan powder) adding about 4 grams (1 tsp) would probably speed things along. EC-1118 prefers more nutrient than a few raisins. Just be sure to dissolve it in some warm water and add it slowly to prevent a MEA.

It certainly sounds like it was done. What you are seeing is most likely protein and yeast particles that are continuing to drop out of suspension. Even when a mead appears clear it is still full of particles and yeast cells that can gradually bind together until the clumps get big enough to...

At 72-74F, you can probably use most yeast, but D47, Cote des Blancs, Uvaferm 43, and Montrachet are some that are more likely to get stinky at room temp. If you need to ferment above 75 F, I'd favor K1V or D21. You can ferment using a carboy as primary, but you need to allow plenty of...

H2S is not dangerous but it can really ruin your mead. Sulfur compounds, if left alone, my convert into form that are more difficult to remove (disulfides). This batch probably isn't quite done, as it should finish with a gravity below 1.000. A good splash racking and treatment with 1 grams of...

In winemaking, there is a true secondary fermentation. It is the malolactic fermentation that occurs as the various lactic acid bacteria consume malic acid and transform it to lactic acid. You can also have a true secondary fermentation when you are bottle carbonating as in Champagne making...

With a high-temp fermentaton you may need 2+ years.

I think the reason for lack of response is that we don't quite understand what you are trying to do with additional yeast in the secondary. Generally speaking, the yeast you pitch in the primary is going to continue to be active until the yeast finishes either by reaching alcohol tolerance or by...

3 pounds of honey + 1 gallon of water should give a gravity around 1.085 and it you used more honey it would be even higher. It seems like the gravity in your batch is dropping. You might want to give it some more energizer - say 1/2 tsp more. Medsen

The fruit provides nutrients, sterols, and pH buffering which often help a mead finish much faster. A handful of raisins really isn't adequate nutrient for most ale yeast, and you may be running into pH problems with your traditional. By the way, unless your plums were dried, they didn't...

You have one of 3 things: A) A mead that had not been cleared adequately (or fined), which dropped protein sediment after bottling. This may have been exacerbated if the bottle was heated and/or cooled. B) A mead that wasn't through fermenting, in which case the mead will be a little...

It works just like EC-1118, which is to say that it will make good meads, but it tends to blow a lot of the aromatic elements out during fermentations. It doesn't do particularly well with traditionals above 75-80F. In those situations it produces a lot of fusels and makes a very harsh mead that...

The sorbate and sulfite will inhibit mold and spoilage organisms so this works well. The sugars of the fruit are not fermented so it may leave a sweeter result. This method works fine if you do not want the fruit fermented.

Premier Cuvee is the same strain as Lallemande's EC-1118, but produced by Red Star instead. It isn't a great choice for high temperature fermentations of traditional mead in most cases. You might be better using K1V or D21.

Yes, you can do that. There may be some difference over the long haul in the development between crown capped bottles and corked bottles, but in the short run, it won't make a big difference.

Not necessarily. Yes.

Start with the freshest and most-aromatic, light-colored honey you can find. Up in your area you may find blueberry, or other fruit blossom honey. I wouldn't suggest a dark wildflower for your first mead. You'll probably need about 5 pounds. Use a container that will hold 2 gallons, or split...

No. The yeast pitched in the primary should finish the mead, and in the secondary you are letting the yeast settle out and letting the mead clear and de-gas. Sweetsdream, my suggestion would be use the D47. It will make a great mead and won't overpower the honey with esters like 71B can do...

Cote des Blancs (aka Epernay II) is not a big foamer. It also depends on the honey and preparation. Boiled and skimmed musts produce little foam. Some honey, Heather being a classic, can produce as much foam as a beer. It is common to have little foam. A hop metheglin is certainly not unheard...

That is an interesting question, and I'll be curious to hear how it turns out; could be great!