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My 1500 watt x2. Cost was 20 bucks to build. Boiling 29 litres of wort. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2n0P_CDS3Kk

My brews will produce about the double of that. And i also use a hop bag. But the amount of cold break could vary greatly from method to method. And yeast properties too. Last time i made a 2 gallon experimental porter i ended up with a 2 pint jars that are stored in the fridge and fully...

You can even do partial primings in sequence to avoid over stirring out of fear of not distributing the priming solution evenly. As soon as you hit let's say 1 gallon mark in your bottling bucket, you prime that gallon. The mere act of pouring another gallon on top will stir that first gallon...

Waste level or waist level? Not being a grammar nazi...but both nouns can be applied when brewing beer.

You don't have to change. Just rack the beer carefully to a bottling bucket till you can actually see the trub. Than prime the whole batch. I only batch prime when racking to bottling bucket. But most of the time i use a fermenter that has a spigot above the actual level of usual trub my beers...

For that purpose and because it's way cheaper i just use plain table sugar. I calculate the amount or sugar per bottle obtained. Than i just add a calculated amount of water to make a rounded amount of sugar solution that is easy to measure individually. Example: If i end up with 31 x 0.5 Litre...

I squeeze my bag till it calls for help.

When making any batch of beer i always aim for a volume half a gallon bigger than what i want to bottle. I also use a hop sock too. That last half gallon gets bottled coz i don't like to waste any beer. i just mark those last bottles with a T... I always end up with 20 litres of very trub free...

My tip: treat your water right. Know your water. Care for it. Read about it. Buy a PH meter. That alone made my beer so much better.

12 to 15 days in primary. 15 days in the bottle. No cold crash. I just make sure to have any bottle i open at least 24 hours in the refrigerator.

You should read #113 and #116 Now: using Aj's formula and converting your SG 1.064 to Brix i can tell you that the difference is not that big. Your hydrometer : 111,6 gr/litre Your Refractometer: 105 gr/litre There is a 6 gr per litre difference or 11,1% strength vs 10,5% Less than 1%...

Means that your solution has 188.8 grams of calcium chloride per liter and you will need 5,3 ml of that solution to get 1 gr of calcium chloride (or 5,6 gr if you wish to weigh the solution).

I am a newbie myself, but i treat batch volume as the wort after the boil. Just because it's at that moment that one hits or misses OG. But i'm sure that it varies from brewer to brewer.

My two first batches (from kits) had a band aid flavor, but they were noticeable only after the beer was one or two months in the bottle. I made a simple test: filled up a jar of water and let it sit for 48 hours undisturbed and at room temperature. After 24 hours i could taste the same band aid...

Yes. I didn't want to save half a packet. That's correct. It's above the max recommended (i read 20% max). But it's just a test. And the sample tastes yummy. Hydrometer reading confirms: 1050 down to 1013. I'll report my thoughts about the final result! Edit: btw it's Weyermann CaraPils...

Dunno Morrey: i'm new to homebrew and this forum...but i'm glad the knowledge subsists! Btw: Revvy is the user i read the most..love the guy!

Almost nine years later this post made my day. Simple and true. Thanks

Thank you guys. As an update: it really did not stop fermenting. I mean it appeared like so, and the reading threw me off a bit. But it is still bubbling at a very slow pace. Third day in, all seems ok. I think i just got puzzled by the thick yeast cake and the apparent stop of fermentation ...

There's a thin half ring on my fermenter that i believe was caused when i moved the thing around the house. But all i could see during this time was not like a Krausen but more like a beer with a slight head. It really looked like it was all bubbles. And btw: it's not 3 days. It will be 48...

Mash temps were @ 68 ºC most of the time. Lower mash temp towards the end was 66 ºC.